"Will Sit For Food"

One of the easiest ways to train your dog is at feeding time. Yet I can't tell you how often I hear from owners of hyper, disobedient pups:  "But I DO make my dog sit before he gets his food!"

Here are three key tips on making the most out of your mealtime obedience ritual:


First: "Generalize"

Whatever commands you start to work on at feeding time, you MUST also train them elsewhere - in other places, at other times, and under different circumstances.

There's something known as "generalization", that dogs aren't particularly good at:  your dog might respond to "sit", even "down", "paw", "roll over", or anything else, like an A-student just before dinner is served, but completely ignore you once you're outside on the sidewalk - not to mention when he's offleash in the dog park.

This isn't just about him being distracted by all the exciting sights and sounds (though that's part of it); what he's been trained to respond to are your commands PLUS all the stimuli associated with your kitchen - he hasn't generalized that those same words mean you want him to do those same behaviors, no matter where he is.


Second: "Mix it up"

If your dog rushes over to plop his butt down on the doormat as soon as you start to fill his bowl, even before you've said "Sit", that does not mean he's being obedient. Think of it this way: he's not doing what you asked, because you haven't asked him to do it yet!

If he does that, have him stand all the way up, or lie down (or lie flat on his side; or move to the hallway; or go lie down in his bed; or...) before you finish filling his bowl and give him his food. The idea is for his attention to be on you, attuned to what you ask him, instead of on the food: "What does Mommy/Daddy want me to do?" Otherwise how I like to put it is that he has YOU trained: "All I need to do is touch my butt to the floor over here, and Mommy will give me my food! How great is this!"

"Mix it up" means to constantly change up the routine - in fact, don't get into a routine at all. If you stick to this new methodology you should see huge improvements in your dog's obedience and attention to what you want and what you're asking for, not only before feeding but also outside at other times. It will transfer into the dog park, where he'll pay you more mind even when distracted by dogs he wants to play with or balls he wants to chase; it'll transfer to the walk where he'll pay more attention to you even when he wants that chicken-bone lying in the gutter; etc.


Third: "Patience"

99% of the feeding rituals I see involve the dog's butt or belly touching the floor just until the owner starts to lower the bowl; then the dog is instantly up and hovering to gobble as soon as the food is within striking distance. What's lacking here is making the dog wait for your permission to get up and eat; so again, your dog has YOU trained, not the other way around.

Instead, try lowering the bowl only until your dog's but pops up off the ground; as soon as it does, instantly reverse your actions, standing all the way up and putting the bowl back on the counter, and say "Uh uh!", motioning your dog back into position. What's happening is that at the first lack of patience/self-control, the positive reinforcer (the food bowl) disappears - and believe me he'll notice! After a few trials, he'll stay sitting; only now instead of his eyes being on the food, they'll be on you. THAT's what you want; attention, obedience, respect, and above all PATIENCE. At that point use your "release" command - I like "Ok!", with a snap or clap - a big, happy, tension-breaking release that tells him he's done great, the exercise is over - jump up and chow down!

To increase your pup's patience, over the next days and weeks extend the amount of time you wait before the release, also moving yourself further and further away, into more relaxed positions. About half the trials you should see what I call a "break", where Fido starts to get up (he just can't stand it anymore, or he thinks you forgot to release him ... or he wishful-thinks that you might have released him and he just didn't hear it). That's good; instantly make him re-comply, then when he does, release and reward for the recompliance. This exercise will add bundles to Fido's patience, his calm energy, his trust, respect, and overall happiness.


Final thoughts:  Isn't it cruel, torturing poor Fido like that?

If done correctly, obedience training is the furthest thing from cruel. First of all dogs love to please, and the more you can teach them ways they CAN please you, the happier they get. It's a win-win situation!

Second of all dogs are highly intelligent and motivated animals, in constant need of mental and physical challenge. Learning your language, responding to your wishes and needs, and working toward having self-control are all exhausting and fulfilling exercises for the doggie mind.

Most importantly, to my mind, is the use of obedience training to teach your dog to be patient, calm, and trusting. If you reward only after your dog gives you calm submission, you'll bring out the happy, peaceful being that your dog truly wants to be - because you are teaching him that he doesn't have to be anxious, hyper, and demanding to get what he wants out of the world. Instead, by sticking to a few consistent rules and boundaries, you can introduce Fido to a benevolent world that provides him with all of the fun and delicious things he wants without him having to desperately or anxiously try to get them! He learns that it's precisely when he relaxes and waits, that great things happen.

If only we could learn to view the world in the same way!

Speech! (On Training)

Turtle kept stealing toys off the table.

Over the weekend I had the opportunity to give a talk about dog training at a wonderful dog-centric lakeside barbecue hosted by Brooklyn Bark. 

I was joined by pet photographer James Morrissey who gave a talk on how to take good pics of your pup, and an NYPD canine officer Matt Notaro showing off his incredible bloodhound Seneca and explaining how she "trails" criminals and missing persons.

Officer Matt Notaro and Seneca 

Here's the (rough) transcript of the talk I gave, titled "Obedience Training And Behavior Therapy":

I am certified as a Pet Dog Trainer, yet I also interned with and received a certification from a Canine Behavior Therapist. Although I teach obedience classes, most of my private sessions involve behavior therapy. These two disciplines aren't often distinguished, yet a lot of the time when dog owners set out looking for obedience trainers what they really need is behavior therapy. So I want to say a few words that can help dog owners put their money and energy where it will serve them best.

Obedience training means teaching your dog to understand commands, in the form of words, phrases, and sign language. For instance: "stay", "come", "drop it", "sit", "down", and "heel". The main purposes of obedience training are fitting in with our world, safety, and convenience. "Heel", for instance, is extremely helpful in the city, since we need our dogs to walk politely past many distractions on narrow and crowded sidewalks. "Drop it" can save your dog's life if he picks up a chicken bone; "stay" can save his life if he slips out of his collar and runs toward a busy street. Likewise with "sit" "come", and many other obedience commands. If our dogs lived "in the wild", or on acres and acres of open farmland, there might not be as much need for obedience. But especially for dogs in urban areas, obedience is both helpful and necessary.   

Behavior therapy, in contrast, means rehabilitating your dog's neuroses or psychological and emotional imbalances. The most common neuroses I see, especially with shelter dogs, are separation anxiety (your dog barks, whines, digs, or chews when you leave him home alone - something most city dwellers often need to to), hyperactivity (pent-up energy often exacerbated by being confined in an apartment), phobias (many dogs are afraid of thunder; many city dogs are also frightened of skateboards, loud children, and buses), and aggression (whether "leash-aggression" while passing other dogs on thin sidewalks, or offleash at a dog park).

The main purpose of behavior therapy is to have a calm, peaceful, happy dog. Neuroses can be caused by being in the shelter system, having to be re-homed, stresses associated with city living, traumatic experiences as a puppy, lack of proper socialization, and so on. Behavior therapy rehabilitates Fido, bringing out the happy inner pooch we all know and love. 

Because of the differences between obedience training and behavior therapy, it is possible and in fact very common to have one without the other. Many of the dogs I see are able to "sit", "give paw", "roll over", and so on - but are hyperactive, anxious, or even aggressive. This is incredibly common, to see dogs who have earned an "A" in obedience class, yet have many psychological and emotional neuroses that result in annoying and even dangerous behavior problems. On the flip side, our own Calm Energy Greyhounds are excellent examples of well-balanced, non-neurotic dogs who are downright disobedient. (I know I shouldn't admit it but it's true!) Their psychological balance required lots of behavior therapy in the first year after we adopted them: the male was scared of all humans and wouldn't approach them; he had intense prey-drive that he dangerously redirected toward small dogs and puppies; and the female was skittish and terrified of all loud noises including jackhammers, trucks, and loud music. We worked with them extensively and consistently, and now they love all dogs, all humans, and are unafraid of all city distractions, having learned to trust us and be normal, happy dogs. Yet we've let their obedience training slide: they only sometimes "come" when called; and "drop it" is essentially hopeless once a chicken-bone actually touches their lips!

Despite the independence of obedience training and behavior therapy, I want to end by mentioning some ways that I use obedience training to help in particular cases of behavior therapy.  

1. For cases of separation anxiety, I often prescribe as part of a therapeutic solution honing the obedience commands “go to your bed” and “lie down”. Using these commands before you leave lets your dog know (a) that you intend to be gone (so he doesn't have to wonder if you've been lost, need to be found, or you've forgotten about him), and (b) that you want him to relax and enjoy until you return (he has an "assignment").  
2. For hyperactivity: “Sit”, “lie down”, and “flat” (= "all the way over"; = lying on his side, belly exposed) are helpful because the more relaxed the physical body position, the more relaxed the mind is forced to be.  
3. For phobias: “Heel” is helpful because dogs are more comfortable (a) moving and (b) following the lead of someone they trust to protect them. "Heel"ing your dog in the presence of fear triggers can help him be calm, which then allows him to experience those triggers as non-threatening and begin to see them in a new light. "Flat", again, (or "all the way over") is helpful because it is a vulnerable position that proves to Fido that he is in no danger.
4. For aggression: “Heel” again, since movement and following are comforting; and “flat” again, since being low to the ground with an exposed belly is incompatible with dominant behavior (and promotes being sniffed, a submissive and bonding act).

You might notice I really like the command "flat". It helps an overexcited or hyperactive dog be calm, a fearful or anxious dog be vulnerable and trust, and a dominant or aggressive dog be submissive and peaceful. Try it!

There's the text I spoke from; I hope it is somewhat comprehensible in print. I finished the talk by taking questions from the audience ... so, any questions?

A Peek Into Obedience Class

Check out a snippet from the Calm Energy Spring Obedience class!



Here's the YouTube link.

Enjoy!

Guess the breed

I know, to easy right? Read on.
We did a Wisdom Panel on this dog at work. His name is Emmett and he is a real sweetie. He came from a cattledog rescue group but his mom knew he wasn't a purebred due to something involving his color change from puppy to adult. Can you guess what else was identified in his makeup?

I've thought about doing one on Jenny because it's possible she might be a mix somewhere down the line. She sorta looks like a smooth brussels griffin cross to me at times. Not that it matters but it might explain her fabulous nose. Who knows, maybe she's a puggle! Ha ha! So who wants to guess what the Wisdom panel found out about this cutie pie?

(Edited 5/27/11 : The answer is in the comments section.)

Caption contest!!

You can also caption it on my facebook page. Come join the fun!

Bribery in dog training

We’ve all heard someone say “I don’t want to use food when training my dog because it’s bribery.” Done incorrectly yes it can be. If you need to hold up the treat before your dog responds, that is a bribe. The goal in training when using food treats is to use them as a paycheck for the dog. Our job is to teach them how they can earn a chance to get paid.

I am unsure where people get the impression that dogs should just do what we ask because we asked it. If someone told you to do something out of the blue because it benefited them, not you, would you simply jump to the task no questions asked? Would we continue to work at our jobs if we didn’t get a paycheck for it? I’m guessing the answer is no to either question. So why do we ask it and expect it of our dogs?

Dogs only do behavior that works for them in some way. One example might be their not coming to us when we call them. Perhaps the thing they are sniffing is more interesting. Or perhaps that running away from us so we chase them is more fun than going back into the house. This means we need to find ways to motivate them to do what we ask when we ask it. We need to make it worthwhile for them to listen to us.

It is "The Lassie Myth" to expect they want to work for us simply to please us. Smart dogs may learn quickly that pleasing us gets them really good things. But for the most part dogs are very much "What’s in it for me?" creatures. The other problem that comes up is them knowing exactly what it is that we want of them. We aren't always clear to our dogs and if they don't understand what we are asking of them they cannot react appropriately. If they don't understand us, and we punish them for not reacting the way we want, well that hardly seems fair does it?

In training circles there are two general camps of thought on training. One camp uses physical force to get the dog into the position they want or to stop them from doing a behavior. The dog has no choices and doesn't learn what we prefer them to do. They are only prevented from doing things we don't want or forced into doing what we do want. One problem with this method is that we are thinking for the dog. This means that we have to manage the dog 100% of the time. If we aren't there to make the choices for the dog they will fall back into the habits we don't like.

The other camp uses the paycheck as a reward for doing the behavior they want from the dog to begin with. This increases the probability that the dog will want to repeat that behavior. Behavior that is ignored, or has no value for the dog, generally stops. The question you need to ask yourself if your dog is doing something you dislike is; what are they getting from doing the behavior? If they are getting ANY positive attention at all then that behavior will continue. (I mean positive in the dogs' perception. For some dogs even negative attention is positive.)

With force training physical corrections are used as punishment which can cause mistrust of us on the part of the dog. Sometimes it is because we are not always clear about what we are asking of them before the correction. While dogs do sometimes correct each other physically, they do so for clear infractions of their species specific behavior. They are also fair in those corrections which are understandable to each other. Humans are not always as clear or fair. Physical corrections done incorrectly can also hurt our dogs. No one wants that. In positive reinforcement other non-physical punishments are used that are both clear to the dog we are trying to communicate with, and non violent.

Positive doesn't equal permissive. We also teach by using consequences. That can be as simple as withdrawing our attention from them or using time outs at the moment of the infraction. (To be most effective a time out needs to be 2 minutes or less with the dog being brought back to try again.) We do not use food for everything, nor should we. There are 5 ways we can praise our dogs, food is only one of those.

Touching, speaking in a happy tone, smiling, play and food treats are the most common 5 ways we can praise our dogs. Because touch is a form of praise this is one reason pushing a dog off you to teach no jumping isn't always effective. Verbal praise can be as simple as the word Yes! used as a reward marker (in place of a clicker) or as drawn out as Good Dog! in a happy tone. Tone of voice is very important if you want your words to be considered praise. Because dogs communicate with body posture and facial expressions they learn to read ours very quickly. This is why smiling is also a form of praise. Food as praise is pretty self explanatory. For most dogs food is their currency. This is how they prefer to be paid. Of course for other dogs play is more interesting than food. Play can be high value for many high prey drive dogs. None of these are mutually exclusive either. The good news is that you can use multiple forms of praise at once!

Whatever your dogs' currency is, the beginning of training means you need to ask the dog to do something BEFORE you produce the paycheck. When they do what you ask the paycheck is delivered. The exception to this rule is if you are using the ball or food as a lure to teach the dog (or puppy) the position you want their body in. For instance if they don't know the meaning of the word "sit", we can't expect them to be successful at it if we ask for it. (And repeating the word a bunch of times will only train them to not do it the first time we ask, not explain what the word means to them.) Instead we simply use a treat in front of their nose and raise it slowly up and back over the dogs head so it is uncomfortable to do anything other than sit. Say the verbal cue "sit" AS they are successful so they learn the meaning of the word. Then say Yes! and Treat. (The reward mark word Yes! means the paycheck is coming.)

I hope this helps explain what training with food is supposed to be. Most problems in training stem from poor communication. Once you bridge that gap it gets so much easier for both you and your dog. Good luck and happy training!

*If you want to learn more about lure reward training check out the book " How to teach a new dog old tricks" by Ian Dunbar. For more information on training using a clicker (or verbal marker) check out "The thinking dog" by Gail Tamases Fisher or the video "The power of training dogs with markers" at www. Leerburg.com

Marie Finnegan ~ K-9 Solutions Dog Training, Inc. 207-354-6488 CanineHelp@aol.com You can find this and more articles on canine behavior on my facebook page under the discussions section.

Wordless Wednesday