I support reputable breeders AND rescue!

As promised I have some thoughts to share on breeders and rescue groups. But first a couple musings on the Westminster Kennel Club dog show. (Photo: Corded poodles intrigue me.)

First let me say to whoever decided to move the show to another channel halfway through on the first night, you suck. I missed the toy and non-sporting groups. I know I can find it online but seriously, who's idea was that?? How does (clearly coreographed) wrestling rate higher than a dog show? Paleeze! Here is the link to the Westminster Kennel Club website. I like that you can watch the breed judging for all the dogs.
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Like most years I taped the show so I could watch it without commercials. This way I can also fast forward the parts I'm not interested in. I thought the akita "Echo" was stunning. But then again of course I would right? I also loved the Malamute. I have a thing for most of the working group truth be told. But I also have to many other favorite breeds to list. I'm glad there is at least one televised dog show that shows ALL the breeds. I think it's important for people out there to see all the choices they have. Maybe this way they won't feel the need to "create" new breeds. (Seriously, you can't find one dog that fits what you are looking for among all of those??)

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Anyhow back to my thoughts on rescue groups and breeders. As I read in a piece in Pug Talk magazine recently, there seems to be a movement to promote adopting from shelters over buying dogs lately. Now who can argue with that right? Only the problem is that not all puppy sellers should be painted with the same brush. I am also adamantly against buying dogs from a pet store or from online sellers. You are buying a puppy, not a pair of shoes. I don't think any pet should be bought sight unseen off a website. And forget about pet stores. No matter what they tell you, NO reputable breeder lets their puppies be sold by a third party. NEVER. If you're lucky enough to end up with a healthy dog, good luck with the dogs temperment. Being taken away from the siblings and mother to young (a common puppymill practice to ensure the puppies stay little and cute for the pet store window) is a perfect recipe for behavior problems later in life including biting.

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Consider what would happen to a breed if there are no reputable breeders out there. A reputable breeder is health testing their dogs before breeding to make sure they are only using healthy dogs. This keeps the breed strong. Passing on the best geneticly is important to a breeds long term survival. If those breeders are gone, where will good purebred dogs come from? What do you think the chances are of those dogs being healthy? Do we really think if all breeding was banned the urge to have certain types of dogs would just go away? Not gonna happen. Only now you are forcing the law abiding healthy breeders out of the game. Good luck with what you end up with after that happens.

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I don't think supporting reputable breeders and rescues need to be mutually exclusive. I have always supported both. There are people who say you should always go to rescue first because there are plenty of dogs needing homes there. That is true. However there are reasons for wanting to go to a breeder instead too. For instance I like getting dogs from good breeders because I think it saves me money in the long run on avoided vet bills. A healthy pet is also more likely to have a better quality of life as well. For instance dogs with hip dysplasia might have to live in pain as dogs with other health issues can suffer from those daily too. Especially if there is no cure or the owner can't afford the treatment for it. Or maybe the dog has a shortened life span because of a health problem that could have been avoided with contiencious breeding. Who doesn't want their pet to love a long life free of pain? This is not to say you cannot get a healthy dog from a rescue group. Knowing your dogs genetic background can just stack the odds in your favor if money is a consideration for you.

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The other thing a reputable breeder provides is support. Because they care about the dogs they produce they can answer your questions whenever you have them. And if you cannot keep your dog during it's lifetime, they usually have a clause in the contract requiring you to contact them first so they can take the dog back or help in the rehoming. Is a pet store ever going to provide that kind of service? Yeah go ahead and call. See what they say to that! A reputable rescue group will usually also provide this support.

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When I couldn't find (what I considered) a reputable breeder when I was looking for a pug I turned to rescue. It just happened that my local shelter doesn't get pugs in much (tho I put the word out there too) so I contacted pug rescue. I believe that if I can't find a reputable breeder then I refuse to support a non-reputable one. It's that whole, "If you're not part of the solution, then you're part of the problem" mindset for me. As mentioned there are certainly plenty of dogs in shelters and rescue groups that need homes. If the health issue is going to come down to a crapshoot then I will take my chances on the side of supporting rescue. Not by putting money in a back yard breeders pocket which is just reinforcement for them to keep churning untested puppies out.

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The article also bemoaned the fact that people were going to pet stores because they can't find the reputable breeders. I definately agree that is a problem. It seems many good breeders rely on word of mouth to sell their puppies. I guess that makes it easier for them personally. However the more the general public sees well written for sale ads "Sire and Dam Hips OFA cleared excellent, eyes CERF, Thyroid tested, 1st shots given, ready at 10 weeks, etc" then the more questions the general public might think to ask. Education is the key here. It isn't that hard to build a website with general info on your breeding program. Pages with most frequently asked questions can also save you time on the phone with potential buyers. Heck just listing where you are can save time for some people. (just a state and area works if you have security concerns) If you want to help educate the public then you need to be found by those people. It seems like the internet is the easiest route in most cases for that to happen.

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I tell people looking for reputable breeders to contact the rescue group for that breed. Most rescue groups have members that are also breeders and THOSE are the breeders in it for the right reasons. They love their breed and make sure to help it in every way they can. That includes being involved in saving and rehoming them whenever possible. Even though they aren't producing the dogs coming in to rescue!

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Looking up the national breed club can sometimes be helpful. If their website is good they will tell you what health probems are common in the breed. It is then up to the buyer to ask the right questions of the breeders they list. I have found that just because a breeder is listed on a breed club site however doesn't always mean they are a good breeder. At least by my standards. To me health testing is number 1. (along with stable temperment)

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A sad thing I need to mention is that unfortunatly not all rescues are reputable these days either. I had a friend that found a specific breed of dog at a rescue (not a purebred group) that wanted over $600 as an adoption fee. She was upset that she couldn't afford it because it was a breed she had always wanted and it sounded like a good match from the description. I'm sorry but that is a price tag, not an adoption fee. So be careful of the "rescue groups" out there as well. If they sound like they are selling dogs then maybe they are. Some people like to prey on the uneducated people out there. It's sad but true.

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I see no problem supporting adopting from shelters and rescue groups. But I think supporting reputable breeders is important too. I don't think I am in the minority. The slogan "Don't breed or buy while shelter pets die.", while idealistic misses the mark slightly. Shelter pets don't end up there simply because they were created. They are there because someone turned them in for behavior issues, medical issues, or they came in as a stray. Or maybe someone just got tired of taking care of the dog. Or they got taken away from their owners for neglect. I won't say they are all there because of irresponsible owners but many of them are. How is that a reputable breeders fault? If a reputable breeders dog ends up at a shelter, and they know about it, chances are they will make sure to pull that dog before it gets euthanized.

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So that is my soapbox on the subject. What say you dear reader? How do we reach the masses when it comes to educating the puppy buying public? Or is it a lost cause for some? Who do you support and why?

Wimpy or aggressive? Fence-fighting and heel-nipping

I recently trained a fear-aggressive Cocker Spaniel who had a funny (or not-so funny) habit:  ignore people and dogs on the sidewalk until they pass, then turn around the instant they've past, and bark like crazy - sometimes even nipping at their heels (or bums!) Basically what this dog was doing was being protective-aggressive, but after the fact to make sure she wasn't in any danger, because she's a little sweetie wimp.

The analysis brought to my mind another common form of canine aggression:  so-called "fence-fighting". Fence-fighting is when two dogs bark at each other from opposite sides of a fence; or more generally, when one dog barks, lunges, or acts aggressively from behind a fence at other dogs, people, or anything else.

I once saw a funny comic strip (which I'm unable to find online; can anyone help me here?) that showed two dogs barking and barking at each other, on opposite sides of a chain-link fence; then the fence comes to an end, and the two dogs shut right up, silent and quizzical, face-to-face with no blockade between them, with little question-marks over their heads, wondering what the heck to do. Then they both turn back to where the fence was between them, and start right back barking at each other.

When trying to explain to the Spaniel's owner the particular combination of fear, wimpiness, and macho-protectiveness that goes into causing butt- and heel-nipping, as well as fence-fighting, I started using examples from the human world.

Did you ever wonder why so many bumper-stickers are angry, violent, and aggressive? Most of the people who have these bumper-stickers on the backs of their cars would never think to say such things to your face, when they're walking on their own two feet down the sidewalk. But they are invincible in their car-cocoon, sheltered and protected and can lash out however they want to.

The same diagnosis probably holds for lots of instances of road-rage; the sense of safety and invulnerability that the car/fence gives allows us to let our worst selves out, without fear of repercussions.  

Ever notice how such an inordinate number of online posts, blogs, comments, and other mostly anonymous internet opinions are violent, angry, even racist or sexist?

Dogs aren't the only creatures I know who sometimes behave like wild animals. Of course, it's still our job to stop them from doing it. 

The only difference is, they have a slightly better excuse for behaving like animals than we do. 

The force free heel

I joined a new facebook group called "Force Free Trainers". I love that term, Force Free. What a great term for positive training! So I borrowed it as my post title. Today I thought I'd share how I teach the heeling position. I will do my best to make the directions clear. It is much easier to show people what to do than to write it!

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There are many ways to teach dogs how to do things, this is just the way I have found that works best for me and my students. I typically teach heeling in stages to make it easier for everyone involved.

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The first thing you need to know is that true heeling is a position and not a movement. It means that your dog walks calmly by your left leg with no pulling on the leash. Their front shoulder should be in line with your leg. When you stop the dog also stops and sits. Because of this I make sure the dog already knows the sit action and cue. (word and hand signal for sit)

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When I teach sit I initially use the lure method. I do this because it also teaches the hand signal for the action because it is a modified version of that signal. To lure a sit you have a treat in your hand and start with it directly in front of the dogs nose. Slightly raise it up and back over the dogs head until they sit. Mark the sit with a verbal "Yes" or click and give the treat. Once the dog is responding to this with no hesitation, attach the word sit as they are going into the sit position. I like to attach the word in progress so they make the correct association.

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Aside from practicing the sit with the dog in front of you, for heeling we also need to practice the sit with them in the proper position by your left leg. You may need to lure the dog into the proper position by your left side before you give the sit cue. Simply use the treat and circle the dog around to that position before you give the hand signal or lure for the sit. Keep your feet straight and have the dog move to you, do not move into them to get both of you straight and looking forward. Practice this separately from the walk initially.

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Another thing that can help you later with heeling, depending on the dog you are working with, is the "touch" cue. Some call this targeting. For this I teach the dog to touch my flat palm with their nose. I teach both hands so I can use either one. This one is easy. Simply offer your hand and when they go to sniff it mark it "Yes" or click and give them a treat. Once they are consistent, say the cue "touch" as you offer your hand and they go to touch it. Move your hand around so they have to think about it and work for it. Keep it fun! This is an easy exercise you can use for many other things later as well.

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I used to teach heeling with luring where I would have them follow a treat in my left hand. I found that some dogs never made the connection however as they were to busy thinking only about getting the treat. I still might sometimes use this to get a dog to move around in a specific direction however the touch cue can be used instead. (tho you may need to bend over with a short dog or use a target stick) Simply dangle your left hand down and ask them to touch it to keep them in position. Touch is also a great exercise to refocus a dog whose attention might be drifting.

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I also recommend teaching a "watch me" command to get a dogs attention. If you have already taught your dog to look at you when you say their name you can use that instead. Be sure to always reward that eye contact. This is the beginning to a great recall as well. If you want to make it a separate exercise say "watch me" and mark and treat the moment they look you in the eyes. You can make it a challenge by holding both hands out horizontally with treats in them as a distraction. The dog will look at your hands. Wait the dog out. The moment he looks you in the eye mark and give the treat.

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The walk: I teach this in parts to make it easier. I simply take the dog for a walk and mark and reward what I want the dog to do. Remember training is really just about reinforcement. To set them up for heeling later I keep them on my left side as much as possible for all walking. As I walk the dog if they pull on the leash I use my no-reward mark word "auh-auh" and turn and walk in the other direction. I will say "let's go" when I change direction so they know I have changed direction. I do NOT yank on the leash to get their attention, I call them instead. Initially I am working just on getting the dog to walk without pulling. I do not concentrate on the heel position until they understand this rule first. I will also change direction frequently so they have the opportunity to earn their paycheck. When they walk with a loose leash or follow me at all I mark and treat or verbally praise them.

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To go to the next level I simply change what they get paid for. The moment they are in the heel position I mark and reward them as they are walking. I also mark and reward eye contact. I usually start the walk working on loose leash work and do the heeling practice near the end of the walk. This way the dog is usually calmer and more apt to pay attention to you. Set your dog up for success! Don't make it harder for them than it is or training will just be frustrating for you both. I use a very high rate of pay for heeling. I might give a treat every 3rd step if they are still in position. Remember to mark it every time you pay them so they understand what the paycheck is for. Only mark and treat the perfect heeling position as well. This will help the dog figure it out quicker.

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Once the dog is consistently in the proper heeling position throw in halts and sits. You halt, they sit. (this might not be until after the first few walks, always work at the rate your dog can understand) I slow down before I stop walking so I can telegraph to the dog that something is about to change. AS I stop walking I use my hand signal for sit to bring them into the sit position by my legs. This take practice! You may want to even practice the movement of stopping and doing the hand signal without your dog at first to get the feel of it. (I make my students do this. Muscle memory can really help you in training.)

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Slow down your walk, plant your left foot, as your right foot is coming up beside your left foot your right hand is coming over in front of your dogs nose and up to give the sit hand signal as you say the cue verbally as well. When I go to step off I make sure I step off with my left foot as I say "Heel". Left foot means heel, right foot is for a stay cue. If you ever plan on competing in obedience be sure to teach and practice this way. It will help your dog understand exactly what you want. So the only cues I use are Heel and Sit. Eventually with enough practice you won't need to use either verbal cue because your body cues the dog. (I admit that I still use my cues out of habit.)

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During my walks when I want to switch back to just loose leash walking I will give the dog a release command. I use "free dog". This means they do not have to stay in the heel position. I like to break up the walks so I don't bore the dog and to give me a break as well.

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Tips: If your dog has a crooked sit you can practice your halts close to a wall. This will give your dog no other option but to sit straight. With multiple repetitions you can move further away from the wall. Make sure you are getting your hand far enough over during your cue to sit as that can cause the sit to be crooked.

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So I hope someone finds this post useful. I never would have considered showing in obedience if I didn't have confidence in Jenny's heeling work. But even if you never plan on showing, heeling can make walking your dog so much easier. Especially in crowded areas. Good luck and if I've missed anything fee free to ask questions!

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Happy training!

Marie Finnegan

K-9 Solutions Dog Training Inc.

A skin update

I'll start with the better news first. Jenny's tail hair is growing back very well. I don't think you'll be able to see the injured area at all by the time all the fur grows back.

Here is her armpit and chest area looking much better.

And her belly. The majority of the rash is gone. However the bad news is that she is still pretty itchy.

For those interested she is currently on: Welactin omega 3 oil, Pentoxifylline 200mg twice daily, ciprofloxacin 1/2 of 250mg once daily, (for the skin infection) Allerplex 3 capsules daily, (2 am 1 pm) Dermatrophin 1 tablet twice daily, (both by Standard Process) and Benadryl 25mg 3 to 4 times daily for the itching. BTW Benadryl now comes in bottles of 100 capsules which makes life a little easier.

I've also taken her off all peanut butter just to rule that out as a cause. It wasn't included in the food testing I'm told. I've been stuffing her kongs with canned wellness chicken with her treats to freeze instead. She is also getting regular baths with a medicated shampoo. She is not impressed with that part of the regimen. She likes getting the pills though because it means a canned food treat. And of course Jack gets a spoonful too so he likes her pill routine as well.

The other good news is that I think the Pentoxifylline is starting to kick in. I swear I can see more hair growth on her than she had before which can be one of the effects. But maybe it's wishful thinking. I dunno. I can't find any really good "before this got bad" photos of those areas I see it in.

So my next step is to switch her food to see if that helps. I'm thinking of trying the new Honest Kitchen Zeal dehydrated food. It is for dogs with sensitivities. My next step after that might also have to be heading to a canine dermatologist. My bank account shudders at the thought since it sounds costly with again no guarantees.

We'll see how it goes.

A day late but worth the wait

Hope you all had a great Valentines Day!!

(Photo credit to Jess Cota)

Yikes! (And Bikes)

Today I saw a first (for me) :

Unicyclist + dog
Flatbush Ave, Brooklyn

a man riding a unicycle down the sidewalk in Brooklyn, his dog running behind him on a leash.

I whipped out my iPhone and tried to catch up to him to take a pic, but this was the best I could get before he sped away. (Who knew one wheel and one gear could go so fast?)

When I got home I Googled "unicycle dog brooklyn" and found comments by people who have seen him over the years. Most notes were joyful and positive, like that he "makes me smile".

One of the pics of him I found was this next one, posted over two years ago:

Two years ago, Prospect Park.
Same dog smile; same winter jacket!

He's still one-wheeling it, his dog is still jogging, smiling, and happy as a clam - and he's even still wearing the same winter jacket!

Of course the interwebs are all about venting pointless anger in any direction available, so there were quite a few posts accusing this guy of being idiotic, annoying, dangerous to himself or others, and even against the law.

As far as those comments relate only to unicycling and not bicycling, I don't really care (for instance, people mad at his unicycle wiggling around, or who think he just looks stupid). Maybe they're right; I doubt the debate is impactful enough to be worth having. But it made me think about people who say or feel some of the same things about biking with your dogs (two-wheeled I mean).

First, legalities. It is illegal to ride your bike on the sidewalk - and in fact, anywhere except "roadways, shoulders, bicycle lanes, and bike paths" (NYS Operation Of Bicycles Article 34, Section 1234). So unless you want your dog running on Flatbush Ave next to MTA buses and yellow cabs, you have to either stick to park paths (or roads through the parks on weekends or other times they're closed to traffic) - or you can try to bike in the street while poochie runs on the sidewalk. Given that most streets in all of the boros are lined with parked cars, that's more or less impossible here. When I lived in England I trained my Lurcher (a descendant of the Greyhound) to run alongside me on the sidewalk, offleash, while I biked in the street. It took lots of practice and voice control, but it was worth it. But of course your dog has to stay leashed here in the States, so forget that one.

The upshot being that if you're going to try to bike your dog somewhere other than in a park, you're probably going to have to break the law. When I worked at a doggie daycare in Red Hook I would bike our greyhounds almost every day, 30 minutes there and 30 back. Great exercise for the whole family! But I was breaking the law, riding mostly on sidewalks though occasionally in the street. I tried to be very considerate to pedestrians, always giving them the right of way, conscious that I was on their terrain. Of course I can't recommend it, as it was illegal, and it did require really well-behaved and trained dogs, and constant vigilance; but it worked for us.

A final tip on how to bike with your dog:  hold the leash loosely with one hand, hold the handlebars and steer with the other hand. Don't mix the two; if pooch jumps at a loud noise or passing squirrel, you can be pulled off your bike and into traffic. Also, have your dog very well trained to voice commands like "Down" and "Stay" (I even train them to "Sidewalk"), so you can drop the leash at the first sign of any conflict, collision, or danger. Leash drops, you come to a halt and so does pooch; you fix the situation and get on your way again.

It might be awhile before I try the unicycle though.

Foster Dogs In New York

I'm so happy to have found a way to stay on top of all the needy foster dogs in the New York area - and even beyond!

Sarah, foster blog mom

Here's the regularly updated blog:  http://fosterdogsnyc.blogspot.com


This should allow me to send fewer annoying emails to friends, family, and clients.

Keep watching it, and help when you can!