Wordless Wednesday

Leash Trick #419

If your dog is an uber-genius who graduated cum laude from obedience school, you might not need to tie him up to a bench or lamppost when you duck into a store to buy groceries.

If he's even smarter than that, maybe he can hold the leashes of all your other dogs too - like this hilarious guy on the left.

However, if you're dog is anything like the rest of ours, you probably have to tie him up for his own good sometimes. But when you do, there's no need to remove the leash from his collar (which can risk letting him run away), and no need for annoying fancy knots (which can pull tight and be a pain to untie).

Here's how I do it, in most cases:

1. Take the handle-end of the leash (the end you hold onto) and thread it through the bars of a fence - or between the legs of a bench, or what have you (you'll understand the various options when you try it).

2. Loop the handles themselves over the top of a fence-post - or around a doorknob, or what have you (again the options will be clear).

That's it!

If you want them to have less slack, loop the leashes around the poles a few times before attaching the handle.

Physics (or topology perhaps) ensures that this arrangement is a sturdy as any knot, but you can slip it off and be free in a second.

These pics show my pups tethered to an iron gate on the street, a chain-link fence at the dog-park, and even to an appropriately-shaped tree branch.

REMEMBER there are "tethering laws" against tying your dog up for too long outside - and anyway that can be cruel and dangerous. Your dog can get hurt or stolen if you're not paying attention.

But if this technique frees you up to take Fido on more errands with you, that's a good thing.

Use it wisely.

Wanna fight?

It is astounding the video games that are out there these days. There are even games on phones now. I only recently got myself one of the "smart" phones. If I hadn't I'm not sure I would have even known what an "application" on a phone was. I of course grew up when a phone only did one thing AND was attached to the wall. (and had a rotary dial) Privacy only happened if you were lucky enough to have a long enough cord. But I digress. There is an "app" out called "Dog Wars". It is a game where you can raise, train and fight a pitbull to earn money. Yeah, pretty awful stuff.

Here is a link with the full story:
http://www.ohmidog.com/2011/04/23/app-alling-a-dogfighting-app-for-your-phone/

I hope everyone who learns about this will speak up and complain. Only if enough noise is made by enough people, and threats to NOT do business with a company that makes such asinine decisions, will they pull the application. Sadly it's only the threat to their business that will get their attention. I mean if they think this was an acceptable idea to begin with then clearly they are idiots.

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Please click the link and voice your complaint. I've sent mine.

Hoppy Easter!!

A 5K kinda day

Today Jenny did her first 5K today. We walked it since I am not, nor ever will be, a runner. Here we are with our friends Prudence, who has her own blog, and Leo shown in the cute shirt.

We brought up the rear with a respectable 58 minutes. Leo even won a prize!

From there I stopped by the office where Jenny got in a quick play date with the bosses dog Poppy. Believe it or not she is full grown. Isn't she cute?

Then I went to Pet Quarters where they were having a fund raising event for the Humane Society of Knox County. Check out Jasper, a super sweet dog who lost his home due to allergies on the part of a child in the home. He has lived with kids and other pets. He is very social and has great leash manners. Talk about a steal! He is available for adoption at HSKC.

Then I had to go to the prison for the K-9 Corrections program. Jenny came along so the handlers could get some practice on the nuances of hand signals. If they don't do them correctly with her she won't do the exercise. (she will work for anyone if she knows it can earn her a treat)

So it was a pretty busy day for Miss Jenny. She did such a great job I picked up a new treat to put in her Leo Kong Genius toy to try. She loved it. (When feeding fish, beware of this possible issue.)

One of the best things about today was that Pet Quarters and another local dog store, the Loyal Biscuit, were working together at the event. It is rare for competitors to get along that well. It was nice to see. I also loved that this PQ refused to carry bunnies for Easter sales. Another thing that is rare, sticking to principles over the urge to make an easy buck. Way to go PQ!

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I hate to end this post on a low note but I have to pass on this warning of a company that lacks those kind of ethics. Check out this post by Frog Dog about the ProMeris tick and flea medication recall. Boo hiss to Pfizer!! Please pass the info on to anyone who may be using this product. Thank you!

Your Dog Isn't The Worst! (Pictorial Proof)

For all of you who are certain you have the worst-behaved dog in the world, I thought I'd ease your minds by releasing to the public our highly-classified photo library from several years ago - right after we brought home our two adopted racing Greyhounds, Monkey and Turtle.

Our excuses (or I guess they can be called "reasons"):  they had been raised in kennels at the race track, pent-up without enjoyable friendly social contact, released and rewarded only for extreme bursts of energy and aggression, nothing to chew on except their metal cages.

The result:

Used-to-be designer shoe

A devastating critique of western philosophy

My dog hates math!

It SAYS "blackberry", but doesn't taste like one...

Hurricane Dogtrina 

Cleaning up after himself perhaps?  Um, no.

 Nowadays, of course, they're perfect angels! (Video chat isn't on, right? So you can't see me crossing my fingers.)

In all seriousness, though, their destructive behavior was short-lived, as it was replaced with

1. daily exercise on walks
2. social play at the dog park
3. mentally stimulating obedience training
4. acceptable release via rawhide chews. 

It is amazing how quickly a bit of Canine Psychology 101 can turn a dog around. So if you ever think there's no hope for your pooches, just load up these pics again and breathe a sigh of relief.

Hope springs eternal!

Flattery will get you everywhere

http://www.vet-tech-schools.org/dog-training

Click the link and check it out:
http://www.vet-tech-schools.org/dog-training

I'm not gonna lie. I am hugely flattered by this. Some of those other blogs they list are awesome! And here is the post of mine that they reference on The Dog Whisperer. It's always nice to be noticed for the work you do. Talk about positive reinforcement!!

Cool new stuff and some updates

Check out the awesome new bed I picked up at the Loyal Biscuit for Jenny.

It is actually a Molly Mutt dog duvet. You buy the cover and stuff it with whatever you have lying around, old clothes ripped blankets, whatever works for you. Then zip it up and Ta Da! A new bed.

I love it.

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On another note Jenny's skin is in a holding pattern. We are using some homeopathic remedies to keep the itching at bay. (Topically: colloidal oatmeal rinses, and a lavender and olive oil rub) We are still working on the right blend of her other remedy. I started a blog of her skin photos to make it easier for me to remember what we are doing each day and to keep more accurate track of her progress. My memory isn't always the best so this works well. It is also helpful for her homeopathic vet to be able to see what is happening with her. Anyone interested can check it out here, Jenny's Skin Blog.
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I've also started the trainers discussion group on facebook I mentioned before. It is called The Positive K9 Network. It is open for all dog trainers who are interested in learning more about positive training methods, even those who are currently using traditional training methods. I felt there was a gap for people looking to crossover into positive training and I wanted to do something to fill that gap. Yes it is a group to promote positive methods, but it is also a group to help educate trainers without judgement. We all started somewhere and we always have more to learn. The groups motto is "Evolution through Education". It is open to professional trainers and dog owners who compete in dog sports/obedience. If you are an average owner with questions about basic training or behavior this isn't the group for you. (but keep looking because there are groups for that out there) To join simply look us up and put in a request. My goal is for the group to be a resource for all trainers looking to improve their training skills (myself included!) and to help interested traditional trainers cross over out of force training methods. So far we have a great group of people in the team. Fingers crossed for our continued success.

The easy peasy dog toy

I have a confession to make, sometimes I am cheap and sometimes I am lazy. This means I occasionally work to figure out a way to save myself money and time. This idea does both. Here is my secret to a super easy do-it-yourself dog toy. First nab a piece of cloth. I think the one shown was about 3 1/2 feet x 1 foot. It literally was a scrap in a bunch of fleece someone gave me. I didn't even need to pre-cut it. Next cut it into 3 strips, leaving one end piece connected.

Step on the connected end piece and start braiding.

Braid it all the way til the end.

Put a knot in it, pushing the knot towards the end of the braided portion. Add a knot in the other end as well.

Ta da! One braided tug toy. No sewing needed! (If you don't know how to braid, simply throw a knot in the cloth every so often for another version.)

You can make them as long or as short as you like. The one below is a longer version then the one shown above. You can also add more knots to the longer ones as well.

Tug is one of Jack very favorite games. I also keep one in my traveling training box. They are very useful for teaching fetch games, take it and give. The good news is that any kind of cloth works. Got an old pair of Jeans? The legs work great as a toy!! They are machine washable as well. I hope this sparks some fun for your own dogs. Enjoy!!

The minefield in the gospel of training

I got booted off the facebook group of positive dog trainers recently. I made the mistake of defending a friend, calling someone out for being rude, and making a negative comment about the actions of some of the members of the "Truly Dog Friendly" contingent. I think it was that last thing that pushed them over the edge. ~sigh~ Note to self, do not comment on facebook when angry. Sadly I didn't get a timeout or warning about my behavior before the punishment was levied.

For those that don't already know there are many different factions in dog training circles. The 3 basic ones are Traditional, Positive, and the newer guy on the block called Balanced. Traditional is also known as "yank and jerk" to the Positive camp. Positive is also known as "cookie pushers" to the Traditional camp. Balanced is a combination of both methods. They haven't gotten a cute nickname yet. I admit I dislike the term balanced because it makes it sound like both of the other methods are "unbalanced". I've long said positive isn't about being permissive. It is a great marketing gimmick tho. People see the word "balanced" and think it is a better option than the others out there. But I have to also wonder if it isn't about trying to distance themselves from the "purely positive" camp of trainers a little. Someone mentioned in a conversation recently about how some positive trainers make dog owners feel bad because they point out all the things they have been doing wrong with their dog instead of making them feel training is going to be fun for them both and that they will be learning a kinder way to work with their dogs. I have to admit, I can see that happening with some trainers. Not all positive trainers seem to be good with people. Certainly in my recent experience! Maybe the balanced contingent are just crossover trainers in the making. But only if the positive trainers stop beating up on them and just lead by example instead.

I really don't like to argue. I've been there and done that. A, it doesn't work. Nobody ever gave up their position based on being yelled at and B, it takes to much time and effort. Being angry is draining! I don't have the time or energy for that! So I do what I do and rarely enter into into conversations with the other camp about the why this is better than that technique. Instead I use my own dogs training as an example, and teach my clients why this will work better than that one on one. That is where it is more useful and certainly less confrontational.

Sadly when a group of dog trainers get together, unless they are all of the exact same mindset there will be crankiness at some point. I dislike this but it is a fact of life. Someone always gets upset and angry. Anger tends to make us say and do things we might not do otherwise. Today I am exhibit A. This is why not being upset when training your dog is important. Anger changes our responses to things. Pretty simple right?

So the bomb that set of this particular incident was a discussion on electric collars. Specifically e-fences. For those that don't know most positive trainers dislike the e-collar. We do not see it as a positive training tool because it causes pain for the dog. (even if you call the shocks a "tap") A friend of mine was accused of promoting them on the group because of her questions. In reality I saw it as an opportunity to help trainers know how to answer the questions a client might have about their use or help other trainers who have questions about them. You can see why this might be a hot button topic. In a "force free" trainer setting there is only one appropriate answer. Nodon'tdoittheyareallbadendofstory. Their answer was do not discuss because we are against it. I am of the mind that without discussion there can be no education however. The trick is to stay calm and rational, not easy when peoples hot buttons are being pushed. Mine included.

So for the record here are my thoughts on e-collars. For basic training I say never. There is no reason to have to shock your dog to teach him something that can be taught without it. I do not train dogs with them and never will. E-fencing - This one is a big fat "it depends but probably not" for me. Most people use it incorrectly, (they think its ok to leave dogs unsupervised in them) use it in unsuitable areas, (neighborhoods with people walking by) or have dogs it isn't suited for. (some dogs will take a hit to get out but not come back in) You can also cause anxiety or aggression in a dog with misuse of e-fencing. I see this fallout ALOT with clients. That said there are very specific times where an e-fence may be the only option. I know of a certain terrier that needs one INSIDE a physical fence because she is the worlds fastest digger and can be gone quicker than you can say "Stop digging that hole!" For her it is a safety issue. (ah the joy of earth dogs!) All dogs are indivuals remember as are all situations.

I very rarely train dogs to e-fences myself because most times they just aren't the best option for the dog, even if the owner thinks otherwise. I just will not take on the liability of it's likely failure, nor put a dog through it when I know it won't work to solve their problem. I think in the last 10 years I have only done it twice. Once because the people moved the fence to many times and the dog became afraid of the grass. The other time was because an owner had installed a home version and wanted me to drag the dog through it to make sure he knew where the boundary was. I refused. Worried he was going to do it incorrectly after I left, I taught him how to do it properly so it was fair for the dog. (I had been called there for basic training.) I do try to warn clients of mine that already have the fencing of the negatives they may not have thought of. Animals can still come into the yard so install some night lighting so you can watch out for skunks and porcupines. Dogs can still come into the yard and attack your dog. You dog may become motivated enough to run through for some reason but not want to run back. So while I do not promote the e-fence, I do not think banning them is an answer either. I wouldn't mind seeing electronic collars banned for everything but fence training. Banning tools is a slippery slope however. There are people out there who would ban the head collar for dogs as to aversive as well. Once we start with bans they can quickly get out of hand. Just ask anyone in BSL.

The Truly Dog Friendly contingent is not a bad group. They were created because in the realm of positive training there was disagreement about who was positive enough to be considered a real positive trainer. Even the factions have factions! It's enough to make your head spin! I actually admire them for their stance. They want to to what is best for all dogs. I get that. Who doesn't want that? It's why people unknowingly join PETA. I mean who isn't for the ethical treatment of animals? I even have friends who are members of the TDF group. Unfortunately I find some other of their members bullying in their tactics to spread their "gospel" of training. I also do not qualify to be a member because of my occasional training work with police dogs who wear and use pinch or prong collars. (Sidebar: Traditional training should ONLY be done on working dogs in my opinion. And even then with the least force to be effective possible and lots of praise as a reward. Thankfully some jobs are trained using positive methods, i.e. drug search, tracking and cadaver work. And you can RUIN a good dog with piss poor timing using traditional methods by the way. End of rant.)

I am thinking about starting my own group for trainers on facebook. Or look for another one more suited to what I believe in. One where trainers can talk about cases, get info from other trainers, share commiserations of tough cases and learn more about positive training. We can't do better until we know better after all. My friend Gina coined the term for this as, "evolution through education". I love that! I've heard some complaints about APDT allowing traditional trainers into the group but I think it's a good idea. If we don't share our knowledge in a civil manner with other trainers looking for that knowledge then how is that helping ALL dogs? I know being a member helped me during my crossover period. They can't become crossover trainers if no one shows them the bridge after all.

So that is my take on the minefield of training methods and their people. I dunno, my husband calls me an optimist. Perhaps I am expecting to much in thinking we should try to all just get along. The good news is that I know I am not alone. There is a faction out there for me too. I just need to find it.

(I will not comment when I am angry, I will not comment when I am angry, I will not comment when I am angry, I will not comment when I am angry, I will not comment.......)

For a great book on crossover training check out "The thinking dog ~ Crossover to clicker training" by Gail Fisher.

Red Light, Green Light! (Video)

Watch how well the "red light/green light" method of leash-training works, combined with social play as positive reinforcement for calm obedience, to stop a dog from pulling on walks:

Here is the YouTube link.

Wordless wednesday ~ Rally edition

Deliver us from temptation

Today I got to go see a 16 month old akita puppy named Kaeda. She had been taken back by the breeder when she didn't work out in her new home. (Sidenote: a breeder who takes their puppies back is one of the signs of a GOOD breeder!) They wanted me to evaluate her to see if what kind of home would be the best match for her because of her bounce back, and to ask about some behaviors she has been offering since being back with them. She is fabulous. She needs a little work on some basic house manners, and she needs to learn mouthing people is NOT appropriate play, but overall I was super impressed. She is very social and sweet and has wonderful focus. I could see her in an obedience ring with no problems. Or any dog sport for that matter, she loves to work! Now I do admit I have a thing for akitas. One was my "gateway" dog so to speak. So getting to work with a smart, motivated and stunning akita that needs a new home was very tempting for me. I could do a third dog. I've had 2 akitas in the house before. My biggest holdback right now is Jenny. Besides trying to get her skin sorted out, she is also a bit of a brat. Jack is happy to be bossed around by her but having a female akita in the house might be a tipping point. I have no doubt I could handle it but should I? In the words of a trainer friend "Just because you can do something, doesn't mean you should". (Thanks Nancy!)

(That's her handsome daddy Ziggy on the left.) So I came home and called someone I had on my list of people looking for an akita. They sound like a great match. I hope it works out for everyone. If only to keep me safe from my own temptation!

Saturday morning fun

The new plan revealed

This photo sums up how I've felt lately. Tired and frequently grumpy. I try to avoid blogging when I am cranky to prevent myself from saying anything I might regret later. Hey I'm human, it happens. * This is actually a photo of Jenny waking up after a long car ride to see Dr. Judy Herman at the Animal Wellness Center in Augusta on Tuesday. My original plan had me making an appointment with Dr. Loft in Portland, a canine dermatologist. After some discussion with my regular vet (where I also work) I realized I would be wasting my time there. Mainly because I hadn't tried all the options he would suggest for me. To be frank, I'm just not comfortable with some of those options. They include, but are not limited to, frequent steroid use or long term immune suppressants. I'm not above using them if I have to for her comfort but for my own piece of mind I decided to try something else first. * Dr. Herman is a homeopathic veterinarian. I have been interested in homeopathy and holistic medicine for a while now, and I tend to lean towards alternative medicine and feeding beliefs when possible. This finally gave me a push to try it out in a more direct way. * The consult went well and we have a few options to try on her. I left feeling hopeful. I figure in the worst case scenario, I know I will have tried my best to take care of her in the healthiest way possible. She deserves that after all. So far her skin is in the stage that can sometimes be the beginning of a flare up. The good news is that she hasn't gotten any worse since starting her new treatment. At this point I'll take it. I am prepared for it to get worse before it gets better though. * What I liked best about our consult was that the Dr. admitted skin problems were some of the toughest to solve. She is not above referring out if the need is there. Having a vet admit they can't solve every issue is a great start to our working relationship. This shows their integrity in my opinion. They want to work with you to find the best way to help your pet, even if it isn't their chosen method. It isn't about being right. It is about doing what is best for the pet. I. Love. This. * So fingers crossed and think good thoughts for her. I'm hoping that we find something that helps her stay itch free. I'm also hoping that happens quickly, though I know that might be expecting just a little to much. Whatever happens please send healing thoughts our way. Every little bit helps! (I don't know why my post insists on blocking all together. I tried fixing it 6 times and then gave up. Blogger must be having technical difficulties this evening.Sorry!)

To Chew Or Not To Chew? - The Great Rawhide Debate

With pretty much every family I meet that wants help with their dog, at some point I ask "Do you ever give your dog rawhides?"

I ask for any of a variety of reasons.

First of all chewing can keep a dog's teeth clean, prevent decay and infection, and help cure bad breath. Rawhides exercise the jaws and can physically exhaust a pent-up dog, leaving him tired and happy. They provide a release of the canine urge to chew, rip, and destroy, that otherwise will surely be taken out on nearby shoes or (for some reason it seems) your most cherished possessions. Most dogs find chewing rawhides mentally stimulating, exhausting, and satisfying. Rawhides can be used to help prevent or cure boredom, hyperactivity, separation anxiety, and even exhibition of prey drive and resource guarding. And they can act as some of the most lasting and impactful rewards for good behavior, useful in obedience training of any sort.

Here are some of the most common answers I get to the question "Do you use rawhides?":

 "There's always food in his bowl."

"We give him treats all the time." 

"He has a million toys to play with."

"Sometimes he chews his Kong."

 "He destroys them in seconds."

"We tried, but he doesn't like them." 

"I thought they're dangerous!"

"Our veterinarian told us not to." 

Rawhides are certainly not right for every dog in every situation, so I want to clear up what I see as some confusions and say my opinion about the rest.

Why do these always remind me of those
valentine hearts that say "Be Mine"?

First of all, FOOD is sustenance, for nourishment - nutrients, protein, fat, fiber, etc. Though it needs to be chewed, that isn't its main purpose.

And "treats" serve a different purpose as well:  as I use the word, treats are delicious edible goodies that, thought they might not be as wholly healthy as the dog's daily food, aren't designed solely for release of chewing energy.

Not so yummy

The fact that your dog has many toys to play with does not mean he doesn't crave or need rawhides to chew.

Probably not as enjoyable for Fido

Cloth toys, for one, are fun to throw or chase, and maybe mash on or squeak, but if your dog tries to chew them you'll be at the store buying new ones in no time. And it can be dangerous to let your dog go to town on these, as the cloth and fiber fillings are usually indigestible.

Ok, now THAT'S a funny toy!

Rubber toys and chews such as Kongs and Nylabones are often recommended as healthy alternatives to rawhides. But you'll likely find that your dog won't chew them for nearly as long. First of all most rubber

Nylabones

toys - even the flavored ones - aren't anywhere near as delicious to Junior as his rawhides. Second of all they're not as satisfying to chew: most dogs want to wreak a trail of destruction as they chomp, and these things are engineered precisely to be virtually indestructible.

The classic Kong

In addition, every vet or trainer has met dogs who don't know the word "indestructible", and who have disintegrated these inedible objects. And that can be very dangerous, as poochie can't digest rubber or plastic any better than we can.

Delish-filled bone

What about actual, genuine animal bones? We all know chicken bones are deadly because they splinter, but at any pet store you can buy relatively safe bones of other animals. These are tasty and usually do get poochie chomping. The reason these are often stuffed with some sort of delicious marrow-esque treat to lick out, however, is that Rufus probably won't be able to chew the real bone any more than its indestructible synthetic version. And what's worse, he can crack his teeth on it while trying. Unlike rawhides, real bones don't expand and soften when moistened and chewed.

All of which is why rawhides were created - to be chewably tough but not too tough. Rawhide is the inner layer of cow or horse hides, split, washed, dried, and formed into different shapes. It is normally 80-85% protein, 10-12% fiber and moisture, and 1-2% fat. It comes in a variety of forms that run from easily chewed into little bits (better for light chewers and small dogs) to super-tough (suitable for aggressive chewers and bigger dogs).

In order from lightest to toughest, that list goes:

1.  Granulated or extruded rawhide 

Granulated / extruded

2.  Rawhide flips, chips, sticks, and strips

Rawhide sticks

3.  Rolled or knotted rawhide bones

Knotted

4.  Compressed rawhide

Varieties of compressed rawhides

There are three main dangers or risks associated with rawhides.

Allergies:

Some dogs with sensitive digestive systems are allergic or react negatively to rawhides. It can cause them diarrhea, vomiting, or other illness and can be unpleasant and even life-threatening. 

In my experience, this is very rare; but in addition to testing your dog yourself with small samples of rawhide and seeing how he reacts, you can have your dog allergy-tested by your veterinarian. This is something you should probably do anyway, as many dogs turn out to be allergic to very common food ingredients like chicken and rice.   

Chemical additives:

In the process of splitting, washing, drying, and treating rawhide, sometimes chemicals are used or added in the process. General opinion is that rawhides made in the USA are safer, as chemicals like arsenic, chrome, lead, and mercury have been found in lower-quality rawhides manufactured in other countries. 

You still can't be as certain with rawhides (or even dog treats) as you can with dog FOOD, since only what's designated as "food" is governed by the FDA. With health and safety thus in mind, my recommendation is to buy "natural" products as much as possible, for instance those sold by Merrick. (No I'm not a paid spokesperson.)

Choking and blockage:

Dogs can choke when a large foreign object gets stuck in their trachea (windpipe), and they can get sick with diarrhea, vomiting, and life-threatening digestive distress when a blockage occurs in their  gastrointestinal tract (esophagus, stomach, or intestines). Small dogs are particularly at risk for these dangers. 

To limit the risk of choking and blockage, try to choose a rawhide that your dog will chew for a long time (not devour instantly or in big gulps) and that he'll chew down into little pieces before swallowing (not bite off big hard chunks). The longer he chews, the wetter and more digestible the rawhide becomes; and the smaller the pieces, the less chance of choking or blockage. 

Also, know your dog. When you first try a new kind of rawhide, be there to watch and supervise from start to finish. Only leave your dog chewing a rawhide unsupervised if you know him and his tendencies very, very well. Separate your dog from other pets so he or she can relax while chewing, especially if Rover is very territorial around food. And each time, wait a day to see how your dog's intestinal system responds.

Finally, pick up the rawhide when he gets near the very end, so he won't swallow the final big chunk all at once. I recommend that when you do that, you substitute a delicious treat in its place...well, because I'm a softie, but also it should keep him from wanting to scarf it down quicker and quicker once he learns it'll be taken away.

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FINAL THOUGHTS

No treats, toys, or chews are entirely safe for every dog. With that in mind, every individual should weigh the benefits against the risks in his or her own particular case. For instance, if you give your little Pomeranian Kiki a 12-lb. knotted rawhide bone, she'll never even get her mouth around it enough to start chewing. Granted, she won't choke. But neither will she get to enjoy it very much; it won't tire her out, won't keep her busy while you're gone, and so forth.

Wishbones

I am also a big fan of natural animal chews that aren't officially rawhides - for instance "Wishbones" (those are the Achilles tendon)

"Texas Toothpicks" (tails)

Toothpicks

and "Bully Sticks" (um...I won't say what part of the cow this is).

Bully Sticks

These are all delicious (so Spot tells me), they usually take a decently long time to chew, and they're "all natural". 

They'll also help you keep your wallet nice and slim, believe me.

I'll end with two especially well-rounded and informative links that I've found on the matter:

http://www.cesarsway.com/askthevet/dietadvice/chew-toys-and-bones

http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/issues/12_5/features/Best-Rawhide-Chews-For-Your-Dog_16120-1.html

Remember, a dog needs to be psychologically healthy as well as physically.

Happy chewing!