Most Popular Dog Names

One of the fun parts of getting a pet is picking out a name. In the late 1990’s, Elmo was a very popular name, with kids taking a role in the naming and the Sesame Street character being at the peak of his popularity at the time. Buddy, an ever popular name became even more so with the release of “Air Bud,” a movie about a basketball-playing golden retriever. Disney princesses Jasmine and Arielle have also dubbed their fair share of dogs.
Other less common dog names have included ones given human names such as Jennifer or Mike.

While some people enjoy naming their pets something less common, there are several names that have been long-standing classics, and many that have maintained their popularity over the past ten years. According to www.bowwow.com/au, a website all about pet names that gathers data based upon the printing of identification tags for tens of thousands of pets, the top ten male dog names in the US of late include: Max, Jake, Buddy, Bear, Bailey, Shadow, Sam, Lucky, Rocky and Buster, while the top ten female dog names are: Maggie, Bear, Molly, Shadow, Lady, Sadie, Lucky, Lucy, Daisy and Brandy.


Paired dog names are also fun like Laverne and Shirley, Heckle and Jeckle, Romeo and Juliet and Peaches and Cream. Other popular pairs mentioned on Bowwow.com/au include: Back and Forth, Beauty and Beast, Coco and Chanel, Duke and Duchess, Itsy and Bitsy, Lady and Tramp, Mumbo and Jumbo, Sugar and Spice and Zig and Zag.

Further, some pet owners i know chosen funny names for their pets, including a large bulldog named Tiny, very small dogs named Spike or Killer, a smooth dog named Fluffy and a solid black dog named Spot.

Whatever name you choose for your dog, it is likely to bring something to mind for you and everyone who meets your pet. Just one of the fun parts of having a pet, naming your dog is a great way to get creative and have that creativity last for many years to come!

"Come" And Get It!

A recent contribution of mine to Tails Magazine.

Ask the Trainer with Anthony Newman

February 18, 2011 in February 2011, New York, Training by Tails Magazine

My dog will listen to almost any command I give, save for one: “Come.” She’s great in the backyard, but if she gets out in front, where it’s more dangerous, she pretty much ignores me. I’m a firm believer in positive reinforcement, so what technique would you recommend to fix this?

I consider recall or “Come!” a safety command, something every dog owner should have at hand. It’s the first thing I teach in my obedience courses, and can be vitally important in dangerous situations, such as when a dogfight breaks out at the local park, when your pup slips out of his collar, or when the front door is left open and Fido takes off straight toward the FDR.

The central idea behind instilling consistent recall is to make it a 100 percent positive, i.e. happy, command. This starts from the very tone you use: Don’t shout, “Come!” in anger, with tension, or stress (even if you’re feeling stressed—which you very often will be)! Instead, still say it loudly and firmly, but with a happy, upbeat vibe—as if you’re saying, “Hey Fido! I’ve got an AWESOME idea! Get the heck on over here and see what’s delicious!” And the most positive thing happens when he actually does come: A loud, happy, “Good boy!” followed by an immediate delicious treat. Just make sure that before you treat Fido, grab his collar in order to simulate an actual emergency situation. You call him not just to get somewhat near to you, but also to actually grab hold of him, to be able to control him and leash him up if necessary.

About the Trainer:

Anthony Newman is a New York–based CPDT-KA and Canine Behavior Counselor specializing in problem behaviors and helping new adoptees settle in to city life. Also an experienced university professor, Newman believes in the motto “Train humans, rehabilitate dogs.” He offers in-home behavior consults and private training sessions, leads citywide pack walks, and teaches group obedience classes. Learn more and contact Newman at CalmEnergyDogTraining.com.

Now THIS is a dog who enjoys a snow day!

I support reputable breeders AND rescue!

As promised I have some thoughts to share on breeders and rescue groups. But first a couple musings on the Westminster Kennel Club dog show. (Photo: Corded poodles intrigue me.)

First let me say to whoever decided to move the show to another channel halfway through on the first night, you suck. I missed the toy and non-sporting groups. I know I can find it online but seriously, who's idea was that?? How does (clearly coreographed) wrestling rate higher than a dog show? Paleeze! Here is the link to the Westminster Kennel Club website. I like that you can watch the breed judging for all the dogs.
*

Like most years I taped the show so I could watch it without commercials. This way I can also fast forward the parts I'm not interested in. I thought the akita "Echo" was stunning. But then again of course I would right? I also loved the Malamute. I have a thing for most of the working group truth be told. But I also have to many other favorite breeds to list. I'm glad there is at least one televised dog show that shows ALL the breeds. I think it's important for people out there to see all the choices they have. Maybe this way they won't feel the need to "create" new breeds. (Seriously, you can't find one dog that fits what you are looking for among all of those??)

*

Anyhow back to my thoughts on rescue groups and breeders. As I read in a piece in Pug Talk magazine recently, there seems to be a movement to promote adopting from shelters over buying dogs lately. Now who can argue with that right? Only the problem is that not all puppy sellers should be painted with the same brush. I am also adamantly against buying dogs from a pet store or from online sellers. You are buying a puppy, not a pair of shoes. I don't think any pet should be bought sight unseen off a website. And forget about pet stores. No matter what they tell you, NO reputable breeder lets their puppies be sold by a third party. NEVER. If you're lucky enough to end up with a healthy dog, good luck with the dogs temperment. Being taken away from the siblings and mother to young (a common puppymill practice to ensure the puppies stay little and cute for the pet store window) is a perfect recipe for behavior problems later in life including biting.

*

Consider what would happen to a breed if there are no reputable breeders out there. A reputable breeder is health testing their dogs before breeding to make sure they are only using healthy dogs. This keeps the breed strong. Passing on the best geneticly is important to a breeds long term survival. If those breeders are gone, where will good purebred dogs come from? What do you think the chances are of those dogs being healthy? Do we really think if all breeding was banned the urge to have certain types of dogs would just go away? Not gonna happen. Only now you are forcing the law abiding healthy breeders out of the game. Good luck with what you end up with after that happens.

*

I don't think supporting reputable breeders and rescues need to be mutually exclusive. I have always supported both. There are people who say you should always go to rescue first because there are plenty of dogs needing homes there. That is true. However there are reasons for wanting to go to a breeder instead too. For instance I like getting dogs from good breeders because I think it saves me money in the long run on avoided vet bills. A healthy pet is also more likely to have a better quality of life as well. For instance dogs with hip dysplasia might have to live in pain as dogs with other health issues can suffer from those daily too. Especially if there is no cure or the owner can't afford the treatment for it. Or maybe the dog has a shortened life span because of a health problem that could have been avoided with contiencious breeding. Who doesn't want their pet to love a long life free of pain? This is not to say you cannot get a healthy dog from a rescue group. Knowing your dogs genetic background can just stack the odds in your favor if money is a consideration for you.

*

The other thing a reputable breeder provides is support. Because they care about the dogs they produce they can answer your questions whenever you have them. And if you cannot keep your dog during it's lifetime, they usually have a clause in the contract requiring you to contact them first so they can take the dog back or help in the rehoming. Is a pet store ever going to provide that kind of service? Yeah go ahead and call. See what they say to that! A reputable rescue group will usually also provide this support.

*

When I couldn't find (what I considered) a reputable breeder when I was looking for a pug I turned to rescue. It just happened that my local shelter doesn't get pugs in much (tho I put the word out there too) so I contacted pug rescue. I believe that if I can't find a reputable breeder then I refuse to support a non-reputable one. It's that whole, "If you're not part of the solution, then you're part of the problem" mindset for me. As mentioned there are certainly plenty of dogs in shelters and rescue groups that need homes. If the health issue is going to come down to a crapshoot then I will take my chances on the side of supporting rescue. Not by putting money in a back yard breeders pocket which is just reinforcement for them to keep churning untested puppies out.

*

The article also bemoaned the fact that people were going to pet stores because they can't find the reputable breeders. I definately agree that is a problem. It seems many good breeders rely on word of mouth to sell their puppies. I guess that makes it easier for them personally. However the more the general public sees well written for sale ads "Sire and Dam Hips OFA cleared excellent, eyes CERF, Thyroid tested, 1st shots given, ready at 10 weeks, etc" then the more questions the general public might think to ask. Education is the key here. It isn't that hard to build a website with general info on your breeding program. Pages with most frequently asked questions can also save you time on the phone with potential buyers. Heck just listing where you are can save time for some people. (just a state and area works if you have security concerns) If you want to help educate the public then you need to be found by those people. It seems like the internet is the easiest route in most cases for that to happen.

*

I tell people looking for reputable breeders to contact the rescue group for that breed. Most rescue groups have members that are also breeders and THOSE are the breeders in it for the right reasons. They love their breed and make sure to help it in every way they can. That includes being involved in saving and rehoming them whenever possible. Even though they aren't producing the dogs coming in to rescue!

*

Looking up the national breed club can sometimes be helpful. If their website is good they will tell you what health probems are common in the breed. It is then up to the buyer to ask the right questions of the breeders they list. I have found that just because a breeder is listed on a breed club site however doesn't always mean they are a good breeder. At least by my standards. To me health testing is number 1. (along with stable temperment)

*

A sad thing I need to mention is that unfortunatly not all rescues are reputable these days either. I had a friend that found a specific breed of dog at a rescue (not a purebred group) that wanted over $600 as an adoption fee. She was upset that she couldn't afford it because it was a breed she had always wanted and it sounded like a good match from the description. I'm sorry but that is a price tag, not an adoption fee. So be careful of the "rescue groups" out there as well. If they sound like they are selling dogs then maybe they are. Some people like to prey on the uneducated people out there. It's sad but true.

*

I see no problem supporting adopting from shelters and rescue groups. But I think supporting reputable breeders is important too. I don't think I am in the minority. The slogan "Don't breed or buy while shelter pets die.", while idealistic misses the mark slightly. Shelter pets don't end up there simply because they were created. They are there because someone turned them in for behavior issues, medical issues, or they came in as a stray. Or maybe someone just got tired of taking care of the dog. Or they got taken away from their owners for neglect. I won't say they are all there because of irresponsible owners but many of them are. How is that a reputable breeders fault? If a reputable breeders dog ends up at a shelter, and they know about it, chances are they will make sure to pull that dog before it gets euthanized.

*

So that is my soapbox on the subject. What say you dear reader? How do we reach the masses when it comes to educating the puppy buying public? Or is it a lost cause for some? Who do you support and why?

Wimpy or aggressive? Fence-fighting and heel-nipping

I recently trained a fear-aggressive Cocker Spaniel who had a funny (or not-so funny) habit:  ignore people and dogs on the sidewalk until they pass, then turn around the instant they've past, and bark like crazy - sometimes even nipping at their heels (or bums!) Basically what this dog was doing was being protective-aggressive, but after the fact to make sure she wasn't in any danger, because she's a little sweetie wimp.

The analysis brought to my mind another common form of canine aggression:  so-called "fence-fighting". Fence-fighting is when two dogs bark at each other from opposite sides of a fence; or more generally, when one dog barks, lunges, or acts aggressively from behind a fence at other dogs, people, or anything else.

I once saw a funny comic strip (which I'm unable to find online; can anyone help me here?) that showed two dogs barking and barking at each other, on opposite sides of a chain-link fence; then the fence comes to an end, and the two dogs shut right up, silent and quizzical, face-to-face with no blockade between them, with little question-marks over their heads, wondering what the heck to do. Then they both turn back to where the fence was between them, and start right back barking at each other.

When trying to explain to the Spaniel's owner the particular combination of fear, wimpiness, and macho-protectiveness that goes into causing butt- and heel-nipping, as well as fence-fighting, I started using examples from the human world.

Did you ever wonder why so many bumper-stickers are angry, violent, and aggressive? Most of the people who have these bumper-stickers on the backs of their cars would never think to say such things to your face, when they're walking on their own two feet down the sidewalk. But they are invincible in their car-cocoon, sheltered and protected and can lash out however they want to.

The same diagnosis probably holds for lots of instances of road-rage; the sense of safety and invulnerability that the car/fence gives allows us to let our worst selves out, without fear of repercussions.  

Ever notice how such an inordinate number of online posts, blogs, comments, and other mostly anonymous internet opinions are violent, angry, even racist or sexist?

Dogs aren't the only creatures I know who sometimes behave like wild animals. Of course, it's still our job to stop them from doing it. 

The only difference is, they have a slightly better excuse for behaving like animals than we do. 

The force free heel

I joined a new facebook group called "Force Free Trainers". I love that term, Force Free. What a great term for positive training! So I borrowed it as my post title. Today I thought I'd share how I teach the heeling position. I will do my best to make the directions clear. It is much easier to show people what to do than to write it!

*

There are many ways to teach dogs how to do things, this is just the way I have found that works best for me and my students. I typically teach heeling in stages to make it easier for everyone involved.

*

The first thing you need to know is that true heeling is a position and not a movement. It means that your dog walks calmly by your left leg with no pulling on the leash. Their front shoulder should be in line with your leg. When you stop the dog also stops and sits. Because of this I make sure the dog already knows the sit action and cue. (word and hand signal for sit)

*

When I teach sit I initially use the lure method. I do this because it also teaches the hand signal for the action because it is a modified version of that signal. To lure a sit you have a treat in your hand and start with it directly in front of the dogs nose. Slightly raise it up and back over the dogs head until they sit. Mark the sit with a verbal "Yes" or click and give the treat. Once the dog is responding to this with no hesitation, attach the word sit as they are going into the sit position. I like to attach the word in progress so they make the correct association.

*

Aside from practicing the sit with the dog in front of you, for heeling we also need to practice the sit with them in the proper position by your left leg. You may need to lure the dog into the proper position by your left side before you give the sit cue. Simply use the treat and circle the dog around to that position before you give the hand signal or lure for the sit. Keep your feet straight and have the dog move to you, do not move into them to get both of you straight and looking forward. Practice this separately from the walk initially.

*

Another thing that can help you later with heeling, depending on the dog you are working with, is the "touch" cue. Some call this targeting. For this I teach the dog to touch my flat palm with their nose. I teach both hands so I can use either one. This one is easy. Simply offer your hand and when they go to sniff it mark it "Yes" or click and give them a treat. Once they are consistent, say the cue "touch" as you offer your hand and they go to touch it. Move your hand around so they have to think about it and work for it. Keep it fun! This is an easy exercise you can use for many other things later as well.

*

I used to teach heeling with luring where I would have them follow a treat in my left hand. I found that some dogs never made the connection however as they were to busy thinking only about getting the treat. I still might sometimes use this to get a dog to move around in a specific direction however the touch cue can be used instead. (tho you may need to bend over with a short dog or use a target stick) Simply dangle your left hand down and ask them to touch it to keep them in position. Touch is also a great exercise to refocus a dog whose attention might be drifting.

*

I also recommend teaching a "watch me" command to get a dogs attention. If you have already taught your dog to look at you when you say their name you can use that instead. Be sure to always reward that eye contact. This is the beginning to a great recall as well. If you want to make it a separate exercise say "watch me" and mark and treat the moment they look you in the eyes. You can make it a challenge by holding both hands out horizontally with treats in them as a distraction. The dog will look at your hands. Wait the dog out. The moment he looks you in the eye mark and give the treat.

*

The walk: I teach this in parts to make it easier. I simply take the dog for a walk and mark and reward what I want the dog to do. Remember training is really just about reinforcement. To set them up for heeling later I keep them on my left side as much as possible for all walking. As I walk the dog if they pull on the leash I use my no-reward mark word "auh-auh" and turn and walk in the other direction. I will say "let's go" when I change direction so they know I have changed direction. I do NOT yank on the leash to get their attention, I call them instead. Initially I am working just on getting the dog to walk without pulling. I do not concentrate on the heel position until they understand this rule first. I will also change direction frequently so they have the opportunity to earn their paycheck. When they walk with a loose leash or follow me at all I mark and treat or verbally praise them.

*

To go to the next level I simply change what they get paid for. The moment they are in the heel position I mark and reward them as they are walking. I also mark and reward eye contact. I usually start the walk working on loose leash work and do the heeling practice near the end of the walk. This way the dog is usually calmer and more apt to pay attention to you. Set your dog up for success! Don't make it harder for them than it is or training will just be frustrating for you both. I use a very high rate of pay for heeling. I might give a treat every 3rd step if they are still in position. Remember to mark it every time you pay them so they understand what the paycheck is for. Only mark and treat the perfect heeling position as well. This will help the dog figure it out quicker.

*

Once the dog is consistently in the proper heeling position throw in halts and sits. You halt, they sit. (this might not be until after the first few walks, always work at the rate your dog can understand) I slow down before I stop walking so I can telegraph to the dog that something is about to change. AS I stop walking I use my hand signal for sit to bring them into the sit position by my legs. This take practice! You may want to even practice the movement of stopping and doing the hand signal without your dog at first to get the feel of it. (I make my students do this. Muscle memory can really help you in training.)

*

Slow down your walk, plant your left foot, as your right foot is coming up beside your left foot your right hand is coming over in front of your dogs nose and up to give the sit hand signal as you say the cue verbally as well. When I go to step off I make sure I step off with my left foot as I say "Heel". Left foot means heel, right foot is for a stay cue. If you ever plan on competing in obedience be sure to teach and practice this way. It will help your dog understand exactly what you want. So the only cues I use are Heel and Sit. Eventually with enough practice you won't need to use either verbal cue because your body cues the dog. (I admit that I still use my cues out of habit.)

*

During my walks when I want to switch back to just loose leash walking I will give the dog a release command. I use "free dog". This means they do not have to stay in the heel position. I like to break up the walks so I don't bore the dog and to give me a break as well.

*

Tips: If your dog has a crooked sit you can practice your halts close to a wall. This will give your dog no other option but to sit straight. With multiple repetitions you can move further away from the wall. Make sure you are getting your hand far enough over during your cue to sit as that can cause the sit to be crooked.

*

So I hope someone finds this post useful. I never would have considered showing in obedience if I didn't have confidence in Jenny's heeling work. But even if you never plan on showing, heeling can make walking your dog so much easier. Especially in crowded areas. Good luck and if I've missed anything fee free to ask questions!

*

Happy training!

Marie Finnegan

K-9 Solutions Dog Training Inc.

A skin update

I'll start with the better news first. Jenny's tail hair is growing back very well. I don't think you'll be able to see the injured area at all by the time all the fur grows back.

Here is her armpit and chest area looking much better.

And her belly. The majority of the rash is gone. However the bad news is that she is still pretty itchy.

For those interested she is currently on: Welactin omega 3 oil, Pentoxifylline 200mg twice daily, ciprofloxacin 1/2 of 250mg once daily, (for the skin infection) Allerplex 3 capsules daily, (2 am 1 pm) Dermatrophin 1 tablet twice daily, (both by Standard Process) and Benadryl 25mg 3 to 4 times daily for the itching. BTW Benadryl now comes in bottles of 100 capsules which makes life a little easier.

I've also taken her off all peanut butter just to rule that out as a cause. It wasn't included in the food testing I'm told. I've been stuffing her kongs with canned wellness chicken with her treats to freeze instead. She is also getting regular baths with a medicated shampoo. She is not impressed with that part of the regimen. She likes getting the pills though because it means a canned food treat. And of course Jack gets a spoonful too so he likes her pill routine as well.

The other good news is that I think the Pentoxifylline is starting to kick in. I swear I can see more hair growth on her than she had before which can be one of the effects. But maybe it's wishful thinking. I dunno. I can't find any really good "before this got bad" photos of those areas I see it in.

So my next step is to switch her food to see if that helps. I'm thinking of trying the new Honest Kitchen Zeal dehydrated food. It is for dogs with sensitivities. My next step after that might also have to be heading to a canine dermatologist. My bank account shudders at the thought since it sounds costly with again no guarantees.

We'll see how it goes.

A day late but worth the wait

Hope you all had a great Valentines Day!!

(Photo credit to Jess Cota)

Yikes! (And Bikes)

Today I saw a first (for me) :

Unicyclist + dog
Flatbush Ave, Brooklyn

a man riding a unicycle down the sidewalk in Brooklyn, his dog running behind him on a leash.

I whipped out my iPhone and tried to catch up to him to take a pic, but this was the best I could get before he sped away. (Who knew one wheel and one gear could go so fast?)

When I got home I Googled "unicycle dog brooklyn" and found comments by people who have seen him over the years. Most notes were joyful and positive, like that he "makes me smile".

One of the pics of him I found was this next one, posted over two years ago:

Two years ago, Prospect Park.
Same dog smile; same winter jacket!

He's still one-wheeling it, his dog is still jogging, smiling, and happy as a clam - and he's even still wearing the same winter jacket!

Of course the interwebs are all about venting pointless anger in any direction available, so there were quite a few posts accusing this guy of being idiotic, annoying, dangerous to himself or others, and even against the law.

As far as those comments relate only to unicycling and not bicycling, I don't really care (for instance, people mad at his unicycle wiggling around, or who think he just looks stupid). Maybe they're right; I doubt the debate is impactful enough to be worth having. But it made me think about people who say or feel some of the same things about biking with your dogs (two-wheeled I mean).

First, legalities. It is illegal to ride your bike on the sidewalk - and in fact, anywhere except "roadways, shoulders, bicycle lanes, and bike paths" (NYS Operation Of Bicycles Article 34, Section 1234). So unless you want your dog running on Flatbush Ave next to MTA buses and yellow cabs, you have to either stick to park paths (or roads through the parks on weekends or other times they're closed to traffic) - or you can try to bike in the street while poochie runs on the sidewalk. Given that most streets in all of the boros are lined with parked cars, that's more or less impossible here. When I lived in England I trained my Lurcher (a descendant of the Greyhound) to run alongside me on the sidewalk, offleash, while I biked in the street. It took lots of practice and voice control, but it was worth it. But of course your dog has to stay leashed here in the States, so forget that one.

The upshot being that if you're going to try to bike your dog somewhere other than in a park, you're probably going to have to break the law. When I worked at a doggie daycare in Red Hook I would bike our greyhounds almost every day, 30 minutes there and 30 back. Great exercise for the whole family! But I was breaking the law, riding mostly on sidewalks though occasionally in the street. I tried to be very considerate to pedestrians, always giving them the right of way, conscious that I was on their terrain. Of course I can't recommend it, as it was illegal, and it did require really well-behaved and trained dogs, and constant vigilance; but it worked for us.

A final tip on how to bike with your dog:  hold the leash loosely with one hand, hold the handlebars and steer with the other hand. Don't mix the two; if pooch jumps at a loud noise or passing squirrel, you can be pulled off your bike and into traffic. Also, have your dog very well trained to voice commands like "Down" and "Stay" (I even train them to "Sidewalk"), so you can drop the leash at the first sign of any conflict, collision, or danger. Leash drops, you come to a halt and so does pooch; you fix the situation and get on your way again.

It might be awhile before I try the unicycle though.

Foster Dogs In New York

I'm so happy to have found a way to stay on top of all the needy foster dogs in the New York area - and even beyond!

Sarah, foster blog mom

Here's the regularly updated blog:  http://fosterdogsnyc.blogspot.com


This should allow me to send fewer annoying emails to friends, family, and clients.

Keep watching it, and help when you can!

My logo saga part 2 and a logo help request

So awhile ago I wrote about changing my logo. I had come across a celtic pawprint design by Aon Celtic that I loved so much I incorporated it into a tattoo. Then I thought about using it as my training business logo. After finally getting in touch with the owner of the design (FYI always double check your e-mail spam folders) I got all the details of using it with permission. I was good to go.

Then I got thinking about taking my old logo off my car and it bothered me. I made the original logo of an akita because my first dog was the catalyst for my becoming a trainer in the first place. I didn't want to lose that link. Not to mention I drew it myself so I knew I wouldn't need any one's permission to use it and no one else could possibly have the same logo. Unlike what could happen if I bought the other one. So I decided I am going to tweak the one I have and use that instead. I even think I have figured out how I'm going to change it. Stay tuned for photos.

The other logo I have been working on in my head is one for the K-9 Corrections program. The one on our facebook page is actually just clipart. I would love to come up with something to use on t-shirts for us to sell as a fund raiser. This way anyone who wants to support the program can buy one and really show off that support. I'm sure families of the handlers would also love to have that link to their family members. Not to mention the former handlers when they leave the facility.

I welcome any submissions from readers for this logo. Either ideas or artwork can be sent to me at CanineHelp@aol.com . I will not pay for artwork or submissions but credit will be given to anyone who's work we use. If we use the artwork and make the shirts, a free t-shirt with the design will also be given to the artist.

Carry On! (Dogs That Carry Stuff)

Walking to the wonderful Hillside dog park yesterday in Brooklyn, I saw this dog...

"Where's m'dang T-bone?"

But he was carrying a raw steak, chomped firmly between its jaws - not eating it, just carrying it ... head down, focused, following his owner leashless down the sidewalk! I didn't get a pic of the T-bone.

Now I know leashless walking is strictly illegal, and I shouldn't condone it. But when a dog is very well-behaved, obedient, and psychologically balanced, it is often far less problematic than so many leashed dogs who are so often lunging, barking, psychologically and emotionally unbalanced, untrained, disobedient, and pent-up!

But this post isn't about leash-walking. It's about dogs carrying stuff - and how that can help keep them under control.

Our old dog Freedom used to carry bagels (yes only bagels!) home, for blocks and blocks, then run out into the yard as soon as she was home to bury them.

The activity served no purpose at all, except for being incredibly endearing. However, in most of her life she was a bit of a nervous Nelly, except as soon as she'd get that bagel in her jaws, she'd march in a straight line back home never flinching or being distracted by anything. It was amazing!

Turtle apparently prefers to recycle milk cartons:

"Paper or plastic?"

Now I'm not sure what the Brooklyn Heights dog-owner's idea was with her dog carrying the steak, but if it was meant to give the dog a job that focused him and kept him obedient and out of trouble, than kudos.

Retired racing greyhounds are notorious for heightened prey-drive, which can be very dangerous if left untrained around other dogs, not to mention around smaller animals like cats. At my local dog park in Boston, there was one greyhound whose owner managed the problem by having her grey carry a Kong whenever surrounded by other dogs or other triggers. It worked like a charm! If aggression or prey-drive levels mounted, she'd command her grey to "Take" the Kong; he'd chomp onto it with glee. It was his job! And though he'd continue growling and prancing around, he could never bite because his mouth was occupied.

Though not quite as complete as training not to bite, the "take the Kong" technique was so much kinder, more creative, and more therapeutic than simply restraining him, leashing him up, or even adding a muzzle. He was self-contained, self-restrained; and the management technique kept him from ever doing something unacceptable and suffering the consequences (which would have been immediate and permanent exile from the dog park, or worse). A muzzle, on the other hand, doesn't keep a dog from aggressing; it just keeps them from biting when they do aggress. And the other dogs don't notice the muzzle either; so even though your muzzled dog can't bite, he can sure get bit back when he tries and fails.

We've all seen dogs (usually labs, right?) carrying their own leashes - which sort of looks like they're taking themselves for a walk.

"I wonder where I'm taking me?"

Great technique! The dog has a job, and the leash is ready for the taking if you need it.

And if anyone can help me get a pic of that Brooklyn Heights steak-loving pup actually carrying the steak - dinner on me!

Bully Syndrome

This monster is my friend Angus.

Angus "The Lovable Beast" (and sleeping Monkey)

Recently Angus visited our home and more or less tried to eat Monkey, our sweet submissive and sometimes skittish female greyound. (You can see Monkey sleeping in the background of this picture; that was accomplished with some calm leadership, a lengthy pack walk, a rawhide chew, and just a little nervous sweat from most of of the humans involved.)

What struck me about Angus's aggression was that he isn't generally a dominant dog. He submitted instantly to Monkey's brother, Turtle, after being barked at, mostly ignoring him but once later even trying to initiate play. Then I saw one other interaction:  Turtle glared at Angus when Angus got too close to Turtle's bed, and Angus responded by instantly veering toward Monkey to set in again. Of course I blocked and Angus settled for picking up one of  her favorite toys ("Hah! Got your little fluffy squeaky squirrel!")

I was suddenly reminded of my other friend Hairston's sometimes perplexing behavior at the dog park. Here's Harry swatting snowballs out of the air (also notice his perfect sociability at the end):

The snowball-swatting isn't a problem; it's just so ridiculous I had to show it. I've been called in to help, however, with a little problem Harry has of picking fights with little peaceful dogs, even puppies. To the big ones, or the dominant ones that offer resistance, Harry is as submissive as little cupcake with! In fact, his owners tell me that Harry's attacks on little defenseless pups often seems to happen right after a big dog puts Harry or another dog in his place with a dominant growl.

This is what I call "Bully Syndrome". Neither Harry nor Angus is a generally dominant or aggressive dog. Dominant and aggressive dogs will challenge other dominant, aggressive dogs, and will be triggered by those dogs' signs of dominance and aggression to react in kind. That's NOT what's going on with these guys. These guys are like grade school bullies:  they get picked on because they're kind of, well, wimpy, and then they feel the need to prove that they're really tough! So they pick on the next smallest or weakest guy they can find. That's a bully!

"Who me?"

Bully Syndrome is much easier to deal with then unadulterated aggression or dominance. I stuck up for poor sweet Monkey, telling Angus to back off in a way that she didn't feel safe doing. Angus of course laid right down and smiled "Who ME?"

I keep Harry off the bench at the park, or other positions that make him feel bigger and tougher than he really is, and I stick up for the puppies, telling him if he wants to mess with them, he's got to mess with me!

Bullies aren't jerks (at least the canine variety). They're just under the misguided impression that they would be so much cooler if they were.

Yes I'm a control freak

So it is day 5 of the Idita-walk 2011 event. I managed to have enough free daylight time today to take Jack for a real walk. (I treadmill it on the days I don't.) My sister is recovering from a back strain so came with me on the walk sans her own dogs.

*

It was a pretty good walk right up until the very end. We had taken a few minutes to sit on a bench near the water to cool off and someone drove into the adjoining lot with a dog they let out of the car. We kept a watchful eye on the dog and eventually they put him on leash. Thankfully it was before he spied us.

*

I always worry about off leash dogs. Chalk that up to previous bad experiences with past dogs. This is why I most often walk on main streets where people have to have their dogs on leash. So many people think they have them under voice control but once they see another dog they almost always go up to them to say hello. (if you're lucky)

*

I really dislike that people with dog friendly dogs think this is ok to do. Yes your dog may be good with other dogs but that doesn't mean the one I have with me is. Or maybe my dog hates being on leash when another dog rushes him. This can result in a nice dog fight. And guess what? The on leash dog will get blamed because, "Why are you walking an aggressive dog?" says the off leash dogs owner. Um because there is a leash law which should mean my dog is safe from this sort of problem. Even the friendliest dog can become a shark if they feel trapped as well.

*

I have this rule. My dogs don't play with other dogs or even greet them unless I know them well and can control the situation to some degree. This keeps my dogs safe for their own protection. The last thing I want for Jack especially is to have negative experiences meeting other dogs. So I stick to my rule pretty strictly. Once the dogs owner got him leashed we stood up and circled around them to head to our car. They saw us and headed our way. "Oh this ones friendly and likes to play with other dogs. Is he ok?" the owner says. "It depends on the other dog." I say and keep walking clearly NOT in his direction. My sister was in between us while I kept Jack moving. Because he does like most other dogs he got bouncy and happy at the possibility of another doggy playtime. (He had just had one with Chuck. See video below.) I don't say anything else and keep on walking. "Oh well akitas are aggressive." the man says as we pass by.

*

My head threatened to explode. It's funny about situations like that. I always think of the best things to say after the person is out of range. But my sister pointed out that it might not be a bad thing for him to think if it keeps his dog from approaching others in the future.

*

Here's a tip people, ask before heading in our direction or assuming my dog wants to play just because yours does. And don't take it personally of we say no. And please don't make remarks about our dog being bad because we said no. You have no idea why we might be saying no. How do you know my dog doesn't have something contagious? (This is the number one reason people shouldn't let their dogs socialize in a vet's office waiting room. That and because many dogs get stressed there as well. Being stressed and confined on leash in a small area is always a recipe for disaster.)

*

I do admit though that I felt a little bad. Jack could have had a great time playing with him and I ruined it by being a control freak. But then again if ruining a potential playtime now and then means keeping him safe then I'll keep doing it. I will always err on the side of caution for my dogs' sake.

Here is Jack and Chuck playing at the Loyal Biscuit Co. The video was taken from my phone so I apologize for the poor quality. Yup them akitas are aggressive alright!

Wordless Wednesday

I was looking through my computer and I finally found a "happy face" photo of Jenny. Although I gotta say, she looks a little crazy to me. I think it's the eyes. Cute though!

Skin show

So Jenny is in the middle of another skin flare up. I swear there have been more flare ups than normal in the past few months. Maybe it just feels like that though. I hate seeing her miserable. To keep her mind off the itching I've been doing a lot of training sessions with her. We've worked on article indications for tracking and we are getting in LOTS of Rally practice. I've taken her to the prison twice to be the demo dog for signs. The good thing is that she will work for anyone so my handlers have gotten to practice with her too. Since their dogs are still learning it is good for them to get the feel of a course with a trained dog. Jenny doesn't mind. She always loves the opportunity to earn more rewards. Plus it helps wear her out while keeping her mind off the itching. Here are a few photos from her vet visit yesterday. They are a bit washed out color wise from the real thing but you can get the idea. (photos are from my phone camera)

Armpit area.

Belly and inner thighs.

And to top it off here is how her tail has healed so far from her previous incident. Hopefully the hair grows back eventually. We took some blood to send out for thyroid testing and started her on a different antibiotic (ciprofloxacin) for the skin infection. Multiple skin scrapings showed no results. (both from yesterday and past visits) She is also still on the pentoxifylline as well as benadryl when needed which is frequently at the moment. I am also bathing her in a medicated shampoo.

*

The other thing I have found that seems to be helping in keeping her from itching has been chewing on stuff. I bought a new knuckle bone today and a bully stick. I don't usually do the bully sticks because of the smell but thought I'd give it a try. She loved it of course but I was worried she would eat the whole thing so after awhile I took it and traded for the knuckle bone. So far it's working. She's happily chewing away on that instead of scratching herself raw.

*

A friend mentioned some homeopathic supplements for us to also try. (which will be my next internet shopping stop this evening) I'll keep you posted on our progress. If I find something that works I'll be sure to share it.

An interesting trick

Another find from facebook. I thought this was fabulous work and wanted to share.



I wonder if it could also be done with photo flash cards of the object?