Mr. Snownose

What You Can Do About Dog Food Aggression Problems

One of the more serious issues a dog owner can experience is dog food aggression. When a canine is food aggressive, they will become aggressive towards any humans or other animals in the household that get near their food. This aggressiveness can, in some instances, lead to the animal attacking and biting those that violate it's food space. As an owner, you will need to deal with this issue immediately, before it escalates.

What causes a dog to become food aggressive? In most cases, Rover feels that he is the Alpha Dog, or the leader of the pack. You are not only threatening his food, but also his status as the alpha. He naturally reacts to this by becoming aggressive. If you wish to coexist peacefully with your dog, you will need to take him down a notch or two in the household pecking order. Simply put: You will need to teach him who's boss.

What can you do about dog food aggression?

Before we get into that, let's look at the reasons your canine seems to have food aggression, and what is going through his head:

1. Food is one of the greatest pleasures in a dog's life, and they are basically scavengers, so his instinct may be taking over and telling him that he may not get another meal. His instinct tells him to make sure that he gets all of this one. Alphas don't share their meals.

2. He is confused about who the leader in the household is. As I stated above, he believes that he is the alpha, and he believes that the humans in the household are subordinate.

3. You're the person who is always taking the "good stuff" away, and he may have stopped looking at you as the food provider.

What are the Dog Food Aggression Training techniques?

Before I list the training techniques for dog food aggression, please remember that if you feel physically threatened by your dog, you should call a professional trainer to help you with this.

Here is a list of training techniques which should help your dog overcome her food aggression problem. You can do these in any order, all of them, or only one or two of them. Your goal here is to recondition your dog. You only need to use what works for you and your dog.

1. find the distance from his bowl that your dog is comfortable with, then gradually reduce this distance. Toss a few treats near him as you slowly reduce the distance.

2. When your dog is eating, call him over, and when he gets to you reward him. Make it worth his while then let him go back to the food bowl.

3. Drop a few of your dog's favorite treats into her bowl each time you walk past it. After a while of doing this she will welcome the sight of you approaching the bowl.

4. Hand feed your dog. Eventually you should even be able to stick your hands into your his bowl while he is eating without any sign of aggression.

5. Stroke and pet her while she is eating and at the same time talk to her in a calming tone. All you are doing at this point is showing your dog that it is a good thing for you to be around.

6. Put your dogs bowl down empty. After the initial shock, she will be begging for you to fill it.

Using some, or all of these techniques should cure any dog food aggression problem that your canine may have. As stated above, it is important to enlist the help of professional trainer if you feel physically threatened.

For further information on typical doggie behavior, including a fantastic resource for training how-to's and loads of detailed information on preventing and dealing with problem behaviors, check out Secrets To Dog Training...an absorbing guide that deals with all the subjects a responsible dog-owner could ever want to know about - well worth a look. To visit the Secrets to Dog Training website, just click on the link below:

Click Here!

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Related Article: Aggressive Dog Training-How To Deal With Aggressive Dogs

Sharing the wealth

I am fortunate, even though I am in a (now) trainer dense area that I have my own niche. My dog training focus for clients is on behavior problems and basic pet manners. I do this by providing private sessions in the clients home. The other trainers in my area do group classes, agility, competitive obedience, puppy classes and board and trains. This means I have other trainers to refer people to if I do not provide what those potential clients are looking for. It is also nice that I have personally met and know all of those other trainers. This helps me be able to know who to specifically refer a client to. I also only refer to other trainers I trust. Trust is a very important component in dog training. The ones I most commonly refer others to in and around my area are:

Sumac Grant-Johnson at http://www.wagitcamp.com/ (Lincolnville)
Mary Majchrowski at http://www.mybravodog.com/ (Rockport)

Lane Fisher at http://www.waggletailsobedience.com/ (Belfast)

Marcia Lindsey Welch at http://www.positivelybestfriends.com/ (Edgecomb)

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My list of trainers I like and refer to is actually longer than the above, these are just the ones in my own area. (If you are outside my area and looking for a reputable trainer check out the trainer search at http://www.apdt.com/ )

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Of course dog training for me is about helping people and their dogs. Maybe I should be more competitive but I feel there are plenty of dogs for all of us to train. And I honestly think some trainers are better at certain skills than others. I would hope they refer to me in return but I don't expect it. I know not everyone wants to give up any business they might be looking at and I can understand that. I have been told I am to nice when it comes to business matters. My lack of "competitive spirit" annoys my husband. Of course he is our families banker so he likes to see profits whenever possible. I see it as more about playing well with others.

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Another thing I like to know about is other dog businesses in the area. There is more to dogs then just training after all. Vet care and supplies, bathing and boarding are also constants. For supplies my favorite local store is The Loyal Biscuit. They have the best selection of quality food and treats in my opinion. Check them out for the addition of a self serve dog wash in the future.

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For boarding I personally use Perry Greene Kennel in Waldoboro. I know the owners and used to work there part time long long ago. (1994-97ish) I do not take the trust in the care of my dogs lightly!

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For grooming I use Yankee Clipper in Rockport. Jack had an appointment just last week. He loves it there and I have known the owner since 1992 when I got my first akita. She used to show and breed akitas herself which is a nice bonus. She has also been very generous to rescues over the years as well.

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Another business I love and refer people to is Boneheads dog walking and pet sitting service. Candace has attended dog behavior seminars and really knows her stuff.

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Recently our area welcomed an addition of a doggy daycare: Harbor Hounds LLC I met the owner Clara a couple weeks ago and was very relieved to learn she is a real dog person who knows what she is doing and has lots of experience. I feel very comfortable referring clients to her if they need a doggy daycare service. There are way to many people who think they can simply throw a group of dogs together to play and make money at it. Doggy Daycare is MUCH more complicated than that.

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Everyone becomes a trainer for different reasons beyond loving dogs. Maybe they lived with a problem dog and had to get good at dealing with behavior issues. Maybe they fell in love with a dog sport. Or maybe they just wanted to help dogs and their people learn how to communicate with each other better. Few trainers with longevity in this business jumped in to make lots of money. It is usually a labor of love.

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I do lack the drive that some trainers have to build a big business. Being self employed is tough. It is one reason I have stayed small. Of course being small also means I can control every aspect of my business. A good thing for my control freak issues. Having other trainers to share the wealth with also keeps me from burning out. A burnt out trainer is no good to anyone, especially the dogs they work with. And having a second job takes the weight of earning off my shoulders. I can do what I love simply because I can, not because I have to.

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The super cute Boston Terrier above is Poppy. She belongs to my boss at the vet clinic. While he was away at a vet conference recently I taught her how to ring a bell on cue. She was a super quick study. I wasn't sure she would do it for him when he took her home (with only a weeks worth of once daily short sessions under her belt) but he reported that she had no problems with it once he got her home. Good Girl!

The Best Way To Dispose Of Dog Poop And Dog Poop Bags

What is the best way to dispose of dog poop and get rid of dog poop bags?

Using a biodegradable dog poop bag is the only way to go, as it can take a THOUSAND YEARS for a non biodegradable plastic bag to disintegrate.

So, why is the "flushable" in Biodegradable Flushable Dog Poop Bags important?

Read more by visiting Biodegradable Flushable Dog Poop Bags

Dog Training For Dogs With Behavior Problems-How To Train The Difficult Dog

Dog Training For Dogs With Behavior Problems

Dogs with behavior problems can be a challenge for any dog owner, and some of these owners might believe that there aren't any dog training techniques you can use to train a difficult dog. This simply isn't true, as virtually any dog can be trained to behave the way you want. You might be surprised to learn why many of these dogs have behavior problems in the first place...

The simple fact is, many times the cause of dog behavior problems rests with the owner, not the dog itself.

The two most important things you need to remember are:

1. A dog has to be taught it is not the alpha dog,and understand it's place in the household. Remember that dogs in the wild live in packs, and that pack social order has not been bred out of them. If your dog understands that it is lower in the pecking order than all the human members of the pack, then you shouldn't have a problem. If she believes she is the Alpha Dog, or top member of the pack, then you will have to teach her that she is not.

2. Nothing pleases a dog more, other than eating,than to see you happy. This is one of the great things that most people forget when trying to train a dog, and you can use this fact to your advantage. Instead of getting upset with your dog when it doesn't perform like you want, remember that, for the most part, your dog will do anything to please you. The only thing you have to do is make your dog understand what makes you happy.

Unfortunately, many people make a few common mistakes when they are trying to train their dog that can lead to training behavior problems. Here are a few of those:

1. Screaming at your dog when he is "bad", or isn't picking up on what you are trying to teach him- You are wasting your time by doing this, and will probably end up with a canine that does the opposite of what you ask, when she can get away with it. Yelling and screaming at your dog when it exhibits bad behavior will not teach her who the Alpha is. In some cases, you could elicit an aggressive response from man's best friend.

2. Spanking your dog- Spanking your dog is ridiculous. Regardless of how smart your dog is, they don't understand it, and you have no way of explaining it to them. Spanking your dog will, in most cases, get you the same responses as number one. Pain and pain avoidance are not always the best motivators for canines.

So, what can you do to cure your dog behavior problems? There are really three things you need:

1. Patience- You must remember that your dog does not have the mental capacity of a grown human being. Sometimes it will take numerous attempts to teach a dog a behavior, or for them to unlearn a bad behavior. Keep at it and don't give up. Also, try to remember that her number one goal is to please you.

2. Consistency- This is extremely important. All the human family members need to react to your dog's bad behavior in the same manner, and the person who is doing most of the training needs to be consistent as the days and weeks go by. Don't change up in midstream, or you will end up with a confused canine who will just revert back to old behaviors.

3. Exercise- Many owners do not realize the importance of this step. It is vital that, if possible, your dog gets exercise every single day. It is also important that you understand that taking your canine to the dog park is not exercise. She is off leash and does what she wants. Exercising your dog consists of a long walk, with you in complete control of her and the situations she gets in to.

If you follow the three steps above, and do your research on specific training techniques for specific training, you will end up with a happy and well adjusted dog. And you will be happy too!


For further information on typical dog behavior, including resources for training how-to's and loads of detailed information on preventing and dealing with problem behaviors,visit Kingdom of Pets

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If You Have A Disobedient Dog-How To Train Your Dog

Happy Birthday Jenny!!

Our sweet Jenny is 4 years old today. Her AKC PAL/ILP request papers went in the mail just this morning. She was named by my son after Forrest Gumps girlfriend. Because of that we went with the registered name of "PRoNE's That's My Girl". I thought adding PRoNE as a prefix would help get some PR for pug rescue. I also printed off the APDT registration request last night and will send that in next. This way we will be covered to do Rally in either venue if we like. (I'll send Jack's APDT request in as well.) Since it is currently only 1 degree outside, (which translates to her as Ouch my feet are cold!) I have a feeling she will be spending most of her day in this position. Lucky girl!

(My husband gifted her (ok me) with a Dyson vacume last night to help combat the presence of dust mites. It is the "for homes with pets" version. I LOVE it!)

Looking for a new home

Meet Bessie, a bluetick/walker hound cross. I have had the pleasure of meeting her and she is super sweet and very smart. She is an active dog that loves to learn new things.

This 7 month old beauty is available for adoption to the right family. She is already spayed and up to date on vaccinations. While she does play with some dogs, she prefers to be the only dog in her home. If you want to know more about her e-mail me directly at CanineHelp@aol.com for contact information. She is located in Mid-Coast Maine.

The results are in!

Jenny's allergy results finally came back today. http://www.greerlabs.com/vet/vet.testing.php

She is not allergic to trees, weeds, or grass. This is great news when it comes to tracking and other outdoor activities. (Her highest number for trees was 18, highest for weeds was 23, highest number for grass was 18. The scoring chart is below.)

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Negative also for all insects including fleas. Her only reading was a 15 MAU for the German Cockroach. Yeah, I don't know what that is either.

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Only one semi high number in the fungas (29 MAU) for aspergillus. Which may mean a sensitivity. (But I will do alittle more research on this possibility.) Next highest number was only a 15.

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She only had one high reading on the food chart which was for Liver. (46 MAU) The next number down was a 14. So much for trying all those different diets. And liver is one of the ingredients in the raw diet I was preparing. All the stuff I have been avoiding? They came up zero's. How ironic.

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What she is allergic to with readings in the 50's (50, 50, 57, and 58) are 2 types of dust mites (common house dust) and 2 types of grain mites. (flour mites and the like)

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So this means more frequent washing of her bedding, more vacuming/dusting the house and more baths. I will also need to avoid liver and stop giving her the pro-biotics I have been using. The good news is that is all easily do-able. I do also have the option of doing immunotherapy for the mites as that is what Greer recommended. I think for now I will hold off though and first try managing it with good old fashioned elbow grease. And even though she had those numbers in mites, they aren't nearly as bad as they could be. She's already had her first bath and bedding is in the wash as I type this. I've also already checked her treats and bought some new ones sans liver.

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It is a relief to have this info. No more worry about giving table scraps or trying to "figure it out" though trial and error. Even though testing is pricey, even with my discount, for me it was definatly worth it.

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From the paperwork - Greer allergy scoring is as follows:

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0 to 39 Scores in this range indicate that no circulating allergen specific IgE was detected for the allergens tested.

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40 to 59 Scores in this range should be considered significant if the allergens are found in the pet's environment and they relate to the clinical history.

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60 to 100 Scores in this range are considered significant. Immunotherapy for these allergens should be considered if they are found in the pet's environment and they relate to the clinical hstory.

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MAU = Modified Absorbable Units, MAU's indicate the level of allergen specific IgE detected. The magnitude of the signal does not necessarily correlate with the severity of the disease but reflects the pet's immune system response to allergens.

The Best Dog Training Tips-How To Overcome Dog Training Problems

When doing your research to get dog training tips and learning how to overcome dog training problems you have probably run into all kinds of specifics and specific training techniques for each behavior. It is also important that you follow some general rules in your dog training program.

Here are seven tips for a great training program:

1. Never give a command that you cannot reinforce immediately if he chooses to disobey you. Every time your dog takes the opportunity to ignore your command, he’s learning that it’s both easier and a lot more fun to ignore you. For example, if you call across the park for him to ‘come’ as he’s playing with some other dogs, the choices are clear-cut to him: he could cut his play-time short and come to you, or he could ignore you – which is easy, since you’re so far away – and continue to have fun.

2. Until your dog is completely reliable with commands, he should be on a long line or retractable lead so that you can enforce them if necessary.

3. Remember to use your voice to the best effect. Praise should be in a light, cheery, happy tone of voice; if possible, smile at the same time. It makes a difference to your tone of voice, and most dogs will study your face to make sense of your expressions, too. Corrections should be uttered in a stern, no-nonsense tone: you don’t need to shout, but your voice should be low and authoritative.

3. When you’re verbally interrupting your dog, it’s more effective to shout, “OI!” or “Ah-ah-ah!” rather than saying, “No”. The sounds are more clear-cut, and you’ll get a better response.

4. Never repeat a command. Remember, you should be training on a leash or a long line: if he ignores you, he gets a short, sharp tug (some call it a ‘flick’) on the lead to remind him that you’re present, and you’re in charge. Repeating yourself teaches him to wait for the command to be repeated at least once before he obeys you.

5. Five to fifteen minutes per day is an adequate amount of time for training. Any more than this in one sitting, and your dog’s concentration will likely lapse: fifteen minutes of intense training, where your dog is concentrating hard on what you want, is enough to send even the most energetic dogs to their beds for a snooze afterwards.

- You can move on to more advanced training and ‘tricks’ if you feel like it, once your dog’s got the basics completely down pat; but it’s not something that you should feel like you have to do.



For further information on typical dog behavior, including resources for training how-to's and loads of detailed information on preventing and dealing with problem behaviors, check out Kingdom Of Pets

Happy 1st Birthday Minos!!

Minos with his siblings. (he's the dangler) This kind of cute should be illegal.

A very scary story with a happy ending.

So yesterday I gave in and took Jack to the groomer. Though I like my chiropractor, (alot actually) I don't much like dealing with the screaming back pain bathing him myself gets me afterwards. He loves his spa days and they love having him. http://www.yankeeclipperpetgrooming.com/ He is all beautiful and fluffy now and has that fresh groomed dog smell that I love.

This morning I wake to the sound of the plow truck in our driveway and a few Jack woofs outside. (we got LOTS of snow these past two days) My husband gets up before me and typically takes him out for his morning potty time. It's "the boys bonding time". I figured they were outside together and didn't think much about it. I rolled over to catch a few more minutes of Z's. I have never been much of a morning person.

I get up a short while later and don't hear Jack or my husband. OK so they are still outside. Maybe he is shoveling the steps or something. I look out my front door and see that my husbands truck is gone. He is gone and Jack is not inside. Mmmmm okaaayyy. Jack is NOT in the house, I double check. I then open the door and look to see if Jack is in the yard. Yes he is. He is still in the yard even though THE GATE IS WIDE OPEN. Holy crap!!!

I call Jack inside and he comes running, "Hey mom, look there's snow! I love snow! Didja see the snow?!"

God love him he is such a goofball!

I call my husband and say: "You are SO lucky."
"What do you mean?"
"You left Jack in the yard, WITH THE GATE OPEN."
"Ohhhhh nooooo"
"It's ok, he was still there."
"I'm so sorry. I was brushing off the truck and needed to get to work early and must have totally forgotten him."

I'm lucky my head didn't explode. I was actually pretty calm on the phone at that point because Jack was safe and none of the horrible possibilities that could have been came true. And I knew it was an accident. I have a very good husband who is normally very responsible. I only wish I had thought to re-phrase the first thing I said to him to "Where's Jack?" so he could have gotten the full "Oh My God!" rush that I did. (but I guess that would have been kinda mean)

To make this even scarier, because he had gone to the groomer yesterday he wasn't wearing his normal collar and tags. I had taken them off to wash and forgot to put them back on. Something I am normally fanatical about. It was the perfect storm of how things can go very bad. Fortunately due to repetition and training Jack knows to stay in the yard with the gate opened until we call him out. He isn't normally in the yard with the gate open either unless we are outside with him, usually because we are in the driveway or side yard ourselves.

But in all honesty I have to say we also got VERY lucky. He is a dog after all and dogs behave like dogs. It is luck that nothing caught his attention enough to make him want to leave his yard. He loves playing in the snow and eating it so I imagine, aside from barking at the plow guy, that is what he spent his time doing. Who knows what he thought when his dad drove away. I guess he knew I would let him in eventually.

Nothing like an adrenaline rush to get my morning started!

The Missy Report

Missy has been doing very well lately. So good in fact she hasn't needed to wear her diaper hardly at all and we are considering lowering the dose of one of her medications. She is almost competely normal acting. Playing with or fussing at the other dogs, chewing her bones and hoarding her toys. Just like old times. I almost forget she has this diagnoses looming over her head. But then she does something last night that jolted me firmly back to reality. I watched her walk into her crate, squat, and pee. WTH?? That is certainly the first time I have ever seen THAT before. Oh yeah, brain tumors make for interesting decision making. In the realm of problems though this is a minor one that we can live with. At least she is comfortable and happy.

An un-tapped resource

As a dog trainer I regularly see people who have chosen to add a dog to their home that isn’t always the best match for them. My job is to teach them how to live together in spite of the challenges a mismatch may bring with it. Most of the time I can help, but sometimes sadly the dog ends up in rescue instead, despite my best efforts.

What I don’t understand is why more people don’t ask trainers their opinion in finding the right dog for them. Dog trainers see and work with more breeds and shelter dogs regularly than the average person will ever meet in a lifetime. Some of us even live with multiple breeds in our own homes. Not to mention the fact that dog trainers know about dog behavior and breed traits because it is our job to know this information.

I know some people end up with a puppy because they are cute and people can be impulsive, but that isn’t everyone. There are also people who go to shelters, or try to find breeders, that do have an idea what they want. Unfortunatly looking at a dog in a shelter can bring up emotional responses and people can then make a bad choice based on that emotion.

Or maybe people don’t know how to find a reputable breeder that will tell them the truth about any negative traits of the breed they choose to share their life with. Those breeders also conviently say nothing of the health issues that their breed may be prone to. Non-reputable breeders, who don’t do any health testing nor care about temperment, only care about making a sale.

My favorite adoption technique comes from large volume breed rescues. They typically show potential adopters only 3 dogs that they have pulled as the best match for the home in question after an interview with the whole family. This keeps the potential for mismatches at a minimum. I’ve seen this done with greyhound rescues and a pitbull group. Breed specific rescue groups are also very good at letting adopters know before hand all the breed traits and health issues their dogs can have.

Considering a purebred dog from a breeder? Visit the breeds rescue website first for lots of valuable information on the breed of your choice. If you are looking at mixed breed dogs at a shelter, sometimes knowing what breeds are in the mix can also be helpful for knowing some of the future behavior traits you might expect from that dog.

Slumber parties, or “trial period” adoptions, can also be helpful to see if a specific shelter dog is the right match for your family. Be forwarned though that some dogs take a few weeks to settle in and really show some of their true behavior. We call that the honeymoon period.

This started me wondering, that we can do as trainers to help make people more aware that we ARE a valuable resource in their search? Should we advertise this as a free service? I know I am happy to help people find the right dog at a shelter, or even find a reputable breeder to keep them out of pet stores. Sometimes just a discussion about breed traits is enough information for them to make a much more informed decision.

If you are considering adding a canine companion to your family, or know someone who is, consider talking to some of your local trainers for their opinion. Talk to as many as you can to get as much information as possible. Trainers love to talk about dogs, we love to help dogs, and we love to help the people who also love dogs. Educating yourself before adding your next family member is a great way to make the best start, for all of you.

The AKC Top Dog Breeds For 2009

While we can't guarantee that these breeds won't give you dog training behavior problems, we can guarantee that these are the top dog breeds for 2009, according to the American Kennel Club (AKC). These don't include hybrids like Goldendoodles, Labradoodles, etc.

Click on the link to learn more about the breed:

Labrador Retrievers

Golden Retrievers

Yorkshire Terrier

German Shepherds

Beagles

Dachshunds

Boxers

Poodles

Shih Tzus

Miniature Schnauzer

Aggressive Dog Training-How To Deal With Aggressive Dogs

Aggressive Dog Training-How To Deal With Aggressive Dogs

A dog is an instinctively aggressive creature, and aggressive dog training is the only way to deal with aggressive dogs. In the wild, aggression came in very handy: dogs needed aggression to hunt, to defend themselves from other creatures, and to defend resources such as food, a place to sleep, and a mate. Selective breeding over the centuries has minimized and refined the dog aggression trait significantly, but there’s just no getting around it: dogs are physically capable of inflicting serious harm because that’s how they’ve survived and evolved. And Mother Nature is pretty wily – it’s hard to counteract the power of instinct! But that doesn’t mean that we, as dog lovers and owners, are entirely helpless when it comes to handling our dogs.

There’s a lot that we can do to prevent the aggressive dog trait from rearing its ugly head in the first place – and even if prevention hasn’t been possible (for whatever reason), there are still steps that we can take to recognize and deal with it efficiently.

Different types of Aggressive Dogs - There are several different types of canine aggression. The two most common ones are:

Aggression towards strangers

Aggression towards family members

You may be wondering why we’re bothering categorizing this stuff: after all, dog aggression is dog aggression, and we want to turf it out NOW, not waste time with the details – right? Well … not quite. These two different types of aggressive dogs stem from very different causes, and require different types of Aggressive Dog Training.

Aggression towards strangers - What is it? It’s pretty easy to tell when a dog’s nervy around strange people. He’s jumpy and on the alert: either he can’t sit still and is constantly fidgeting, leaping at the smallest sound, and pacing around barking and whining; or he’s veerrrry still indeed, sitting rock-steady in one place, staring hard at the object of his suspicions (a visitor, the mailman, someone approaching him on the street while he’s tied up outside a store.) Why does it happen? There’s one major reason why a dog doesn’t like strange people: he’s never had the chance to get used to them. Remember, your dog relies 100% on you to broaden his horizons for him: without being taken on lots of outings to see the world and realize for himself, through consistent and positive experiences, that the unknown doesn’t necessarily equal bad news for him, how can he realistically be expected to relax in an unfamiliar situation?

What can I do about it? The process of accustoming your dog to the world and all the strange people (and animals) that it contains is called socialization. This is an incredibly important aspect of your dog’s upbringing: in fact, it’s pretty hard to overemphasize just how important it is. Socializing your dog means exposing him from a young age (generally speaking, as soon as he’s had his vaccinations) to a wide variety of new experiences, new people, and new animals.

How does socialization prevent stranger aggression? When you socialize your dog, you’re getting him to learn through experience that new sights and sounds are fun, not scary. It’s not enough to expose an adult dog to a crowd of unfamiliar people and tell him to “Settle down, Roxy, it’s OK” – he has to learn that it’s OK for himself. And he needs to do it from puppyhood for the lesson to sink in. The more types of people and animals he meets (babies, toddlers, teenagers, old people, men, women, people wearing uniforms, people wearing motorcycle helmets, people carrying umbrellas, etc) in a fun and relaxed context, the more at ease and happy – and safe around strangers - he’ll be in general.

How can I socialize my dog so that he doesn’t develop a fear of strangers? Socializing your dog is pretty easy to do – it’s more of a general effort than a specific training regimen. First of all, you should take him to puppy preschool. This is a generic term for a series of easy group-training classes for puppies (often performed at the vet clinic, which has the additional benefit of teaching your dog positive associations with the vet!). In a puppy preschool class, about ten or so puppy owners get together with a qualified trainer (often there’ll be at least two trainers present – the more there are, the better, since it means you get more one-on-one time with a professional) and start teaching their puppies the basic obedience commands: sit, stay, and so on. Even though the obedience work is very helpful and is a great way to start your puppy on the road to being a trustworthy adult dog, really the best part of puppy preschool is the play sessions: several times throughout the class, the puppies are encouraged to run around off-leash and play amongst themselves. This is an ideal environment for them to learn good social skills: there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar dogs present (which teaches them how to interact with strange dogs), there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar people present (which teaches them that new faces are nothing to be afraid of), and the environment is safe and controlled (there’s at least one certified trainer present to make sure that things don’t get out of hand).

Socialization doesn’t just stop with puppy preschool, though. It’s an ongoing effort throughout the life of your puppy and dog: he needs to be taken to a whole bunch of new places and environments. Remember not to overwhelm him: start off slow, and build up his tolerance gradually.

- Aggression towards family members - There are two common reasons why a dog is aggressive towards members of his own human family:

- He’s trying to defend something he thinks of as his from a perceived threat (you). This is known as resource guarding, and though it may sound innocuous, there’s actually a lot more going on here than your dog simply trying to keep his kibble to himself.

- He’s not comfortable with the treatment/handling he’s getting from you or other members of the family. What’s resource guarding? Resource guarding is pretty common among dogs. The term refers to overly-possessive behavior on behalf of your dog: for instance, snarling at you if you approach him when he’s eating, or giving you “the eye” (a flinty-eyed, direct stare) if you reach your hand out to take a toy away from him. All dogs can be possessive from time to time – it’s in their natures. Sometimes they’re possessive over things with no conceivable value: inedible trash, balled up pieces of paper or tissue, old socks. More frequently, however, resource-guarding becomes an issue over items with a very real and understandable value: food and toys.

Why does it happen? It all boils down to the issue of dominance. Let me take a moment to explain this concept: dogs are pack animals. This means that they’re used to a very structured environment: in a dog-pack, each individual animal is ranked in a hierarchy of position and power (or “dominance”) in relation to every other animal. Each animal is aware of the rank of every other animal, which means he knows specifically how to act in any given situation (whether to back down, whether to push the issue, whether to muscle in or not on somebody else’s turf, etc etc). To your dog, the family environment is no different to the dog-pack environment. Your dog has ranked each member of the family, and has his own perception of where he ranks in that environment as well. This is where it gets interesting: if your dog perceives himself as higher up on the social totem-pole than other family members, he’s going to get cheeky. If he’s really got an overinflated sense of his own importance, he’ll start to act aggressively. Why? Because dominance and aggression are the exclusive rights of a superior-ranked animal. No underdog would ever show aggression or act dominantly to a higher-ranked animal (the consequences would be dire, and he knows it!)

Resource guarding is a classic example of dominant behavior: only a higher-ranked dog (a “dominant” dog) would act aggressively in defence of resources. To put it plainly: if it was clear to your dog that he is not, in fact, the leader of the family, he’d never even dream of trying to prevent you from taking his food or toys – because a lower-ranking dog (him) will always go along with what the higher-ranking dogs (you and your family) say.

So what can I do about it? The best treatment for dominant, aggressive behavior is consistent, frequent obedience work, which will underline your authority over your dog. Just two fifteen-minute sessions a day will make it perfectly clear to your dog that you’re the boss, and that it pays to do what you say. You can make this fact clear to him by rewarding him (with treats and lavish praise) for obeying a command, and isolating him (putting him in “time-out”, either outside the house or in a room by himself) for misbehaviour. - If you’re not entirely confident doing this yourself, you may wish to consider enlisting the assistance of a qualified dog-trainer.

- Brush up on your understanding of canine psychology and communication, so that you understand what he’s trying to say – this will help you to nip any dominant behaviors in the bud, and to communicate your own authority more effectively

- Train regularly: keep obedience sessions short and productive (no more than fifteen minutes – maybe two or three of these per day). Why doesn’t my dog like to be handled? All dogs have different handling thresholds. Some dogs like lots of cuddles, and are perfectly content to be hugged, kissed, and have arms slung over their shoulders (this is the ultimate “I’m the boss” gesture to a dog, which is why a lot of them won’t tolerate it.) Others – usually the ones not accustomed to a great deal of physical contact from a very young age – aren’t comfortable with too much full-body contact and will get nervy and agitated if someone persists in trying to hug them.

Another common cause of handling-induced aggression is a bad grooming experience: nail-clipping and bathing are the two common culprits. When you clip a dog’s nails, it’s very easy to “quick” him – that is, cut the blood vessel that runs inside the nail. This is extremely painful to a dog, and is a sure-fire way to cause a long-lasting aversion to those clippers. Being washed is something that a great many dogs have difficulty dealing with – a lot of owners, when confronted with a wild-eyed, half-washed, upset dog, feel that in order to complete the wash they have to forcibly restrain him. This only adds to the dog’s sense of panic, and reinforces his impression of a wash as something to be avoided at all costs – if necessary, to defend himself from it with a display of teeth and hackles.

Can I “retrain” him to enjoy being handled and groomed? In a word: yes. It’s a lot easier if you start from a young age – handle your puppy a lot, get him used to being touched and rubbed all over. Young dogs generally enjoy being handled – it’s only older ones who haven’t had a lot of physical contact throughout their lives that sometimes find physical affection difficult to accept. Practice picking up his paws and touching them with the clipper; practice taking him into the bath (or outside, under the faucet – whatever works for you, but warm water is much more pleasant for a dog than a freezing spray of ice-water!), and augment the process throughout with lots of praise and the occasional small treat.

For an older dog that may already have had several unpleasant handling/grooming experiences, things are a little more difficult. You need to undo the damage already caused by those bad experiences, which you can do by taking things very slowly – with an emphasis on keeping your dog calm. The instant he starts to show signs of stress, stop immediately and let him relax. Try to make the whole thing into a game: give him lots of praise, pats, and treats. Take things slowly. Don’t push it too far: if you get nervous, stop. Dogs show aggression for a reason: they’re warning you to back off, or else! If your dog just can’t seem to accept being groomed, no matter how much practice you put in, it’s best to hand the job over to the professionals. Your vet will clip his nails for you (make sure you tell him first that he gets aggressive when the clippers come out, so your vet can take the necessary precautions!). As far as washing and brushing goes, the dog-grooming business is a flourishing industry: for a small fee, you can get your dog washed, clipped, brushed, and whatever else you require by experienced professionals (again, make sure you tell them about your dog’s reaction to the experience first!)

For further information on typical doggie behavior, including a fantastic resource for training how-to's and loads of detailed information on preventing and dealing with problem behaviors, check out Secrets To Dog Training...an absorbing guide that deals with all the subjects a responsible dog-owner could ever want to know about - well worth a look. To visit the Secrets to Dog Training website, just click on the link below:

Visit Kingdom of Pets by Clicking Here!

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Dog Training Tips And Dog Obedience Tips

Seminars and paperwork and photos, oh my!

I am very excited to have signed up for a two day seminar in June with Pamela Dennison at Wag It on "Positive reinforcement training for the obedience and rally ring". http://www.wagitcamp.com/Seminars.html I am fortunate to have such a great seminar coming to my own area. No long distance travel and no hotel fees! I'm also excited because it is a "hands on work with my dog" seminar. Something I rarely get to attend.

I have dabbled in obedience showing in the past and I have to admit it isn't my favorite activity. I am not very competitive and never saw the point if it wasn't fun for both me and my dogs. I have however started some training in Rally O and think this might be much more challenging (the course changes every time!) and interesting for us. I also think it is much more realistic in day to day life and training since you get to talk to your dogs during the course. The dogs are expected to be dogs in Rally.

This means I have to get Jenny's PAL/ILP from AKC since she came from rescue with no pedigree if I want to ever compete with her in any AKC events. I already have Jack's paperwork since he came from a breeder. (a fabulous breeder that is) I filled out her paperwork last night. I also need to send in her spay certificate and two good photos of her, side and front view. I tried getting a couple tonight with my daughters help. As you can see it didn't all go quite as planned.

Even though I am not always a fan of things the AKC does, (or doesn't do) I am a member in the local kennel club and know that to compete in obedience, or persue her tracking certification, I need to get this done. I live to far out in the boonies to rely on UKC events. (Oh yeah, another part of competing I hate is the travel. The older I get the more I worry about car accidents and prefer to stay close to home. If I die attending a dog event my kids will never forgive me. Anyone else paranoid like that?)

I am also looking forward to the grand opening of http://www.finishforwarddogs.com/ in Saco next month. I know they are going to host some great seminars too. I am thinking about trying weight pulling with Jack. I also keep my eyes on http://www.happytailsportland.com/ for upcoming seminars too. That have hosted some great ones in the past. (As did My Wonderful Dog which sadly closed it's doors.)

It looks like I'll be trying again for those photos tomorrow. I know, she's so abused!

A walk in the woods

Today was a beautiful day to take the boys in the woods for a walk. They LOVE to run together. It's funny to watch them because they make such an strange pair. We call them the odd couple. It was a much nicer walk with no loose dogs pestering us this time.

Searching for the itch

Jenny came to live with us on September 3, 2007. We adopted her from from Pug Rescue of New England. It is hard to believe it was that long ago already. Her 4th birthday is coming up and it is making me a little reflective. I don't know anything about her breeder or her second home. (If you count the breeder as home number 1.) She came into her third home with lots of GI upset, from what I can tell from her vet records, and was already a stool eater. Her third home didn't work out because she was a resource guarder of food and would start fights with the other dogs in the home. Finding a home with a trainer to adopt her turned out to be just the thing she needed.
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My son was so excited to get his very own dog. He had begged for a pug for years. None of our attempts at swaying him towards a french bulldog deterred him. And we sure tried. (having contacts in a breed already is helpful when trying to find another after all) He even collected stuffed pugs and photos of them. When he started saving his own money to get a real one we knew we had to make it happen.
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I am grateful that my children let me borrow "their" dogs for my own amusement. Of course it works out for them since I also "borrow" them when it is time to feed and walk them most of the time too. They help out alot with them of course, a family with 3 dogs to take care of ensures there is always something dog related for someone to do after all. And I may be a control freak but I can't be everywhere at once either.
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I got a handle on her resource guarding pretty quickly. She just needed to learn how to relax and realize that no one was going to deny her a meal. She still dives after food if it falls on the floor if you don't get a "leave it" out fast enough, but she doesn't attack the other dogs or even get snarky if they go near her anymore when she is eating. She has also learned to share food off the plates we give them to lick when we are finished with dinner. (What, you think dog trainers don't spoil their dogs too? VBG)
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I think a big part of her guarding came from treatment she received in her second home. Based on her vet records when she went into her third home she was underweight. The stool eating may have been a response to not getting enough food on her own. Some dogs will learn to resort to "recycling" their food if they are not getting enough. Or if they aren't getting enough nutrients from what they are getting in their diet. I once saw a shelter dog that had been severely neglected, not fed or given water regularly, drinking his own urine AS he was peeing. (And yes it WAS shocking!)
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Monday at work we drew some blood for a Greer allergy testing panel on Jenny. http://www.greerlabs.com/vet/vet.pet.owner.education.php She gets these itchy spells that so far is easily managed with over the counter Benedryl. I have also been trying different diets to see if it may be related to food. Proper food trials are tough to do though because you have to be very strict with them. I admit my memory usually fails me here. If she has food allergies this may explain why she had such GI trouble as a puppy. I requested the works, environmental, insect, and food testing. It isn't an absolute as I understand it but I am interested to see if she has any high numbers. This can help me know what to avoid with her. Is it certain foods? Or is it something in the environment? Fortunately she isn't nearly as bad as some of the clients we see at the hospital. But being itchy is no fun for anyone. Hopefully I will learn something that can help her. Until then I thank my stars we have benedryl.
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(For proper dosing and to make sure Benedryl is safe for your itchy dog please call your veterinarian.)

Does Your Dog Eat Grass? Why Dogs Eat Grass

My Dog eats grass. Your Dog eats grass. A huge percentage of dogs eat grass. Dogs have been eating grass since the first dog walked the earth with few side effects, aside from the odd bout of vomiting.

Nobody really knows why dogs eat grass. There are a wide variety of theories as to why animals that are widely regarded as carnivores would willingly consume moderate quantities of grass. One of these theories is that dogs are not, actually, carnivores, or meat eaters. They’re omnivores, which means literally, “eat anything”. The theory is that the modern-day dog eats grass in a deliberate attempt to supplement his diet with nutrients that are missing from his daily meals. The main thrust of this argument centers around the idea that dogs, as omnivorous animals, are eating too much meat and need to balance this out with some greens on the side.

So dogs eat grass to satisfy their need for greens, just like you or I might crave a salad to go with our steak??

I'm not sure this is the case. First of all, most of us feed our dogs primarily dog food, which contains the full spectrum of fully-absorbable nutrients that dogs require. If you’re feeding your dog on meat alone, whether canned or fresh, there may be some substance to this theory – dogs need a wide range of vitamins and minerals for optimum health, most of which are not contained within fresh meat. It’s true that canned meat has some added nutrients; the main problem with canned food is that it’s too soft and jelly-like to maintain healthy teeth and bowels. Dogs fed primarily on canned food are far more prone to developing dental disease at a relatively early age (not to mention an increased incidence of constipation and flatulence, from the lack of fiber and roughage). As far as dog food goes, unless your dog’s on a specific, prescribed diet, dog food should constitute the main part of his diet – you can add a few spoonfuls of canned meat for variety and temptation, if you like.

Another popular theory is that dogs use grass as a sort of natural emetic: that, since a nauseous dog lacks the phalangeal structure necessary for the good old ‘finger down the throat’ move, he’ll resort to nature’s bounty as an alternative. It’s true that grass does sometimes make dogs vomit – those tickly stems can irritate the stomach lining, and there have been a few occasions when I’ve seen dogs vomit up a chunk of something that’s proved to be indigestible, and along with the offending article, there’s also been a clump of grass in the vomit too. However – and I’m sorry to pour cold water over this one too – I have to say that this is pure conjecture, and somewhat nonsensical conjecture at that. Dogs are perfectly capable of vomiting all by themselves, without the assistance of grass; I’ve seen too many dogs enjoying a post-prandial mouthful of mixed lawn greens, without any regurgitational side effects, to lend the theory any credence.

If you’re worried that eating grass is going to hurt your dog, you can lay that concern to rest right now. The one possible downside is that he’ll irritate his throat or stomach lining, but this issue will only cause him strife for a second or two at most: he’ll either cough the problem away, or will toss his cookies without further ado (which rarely bothers most dogs). Really, dog grass eating is nothing to worry about – it’s a life-long habit with many dogs, and if yours does decide that it’s no longer in his best interests, he’ll simply stop eating it all by himself.

You may need to keep an eye on him around recently treated lawns, or anywhere where nasties like pesticides, snail bait, and rat poison could be around, since most garden chemicals are highly toxic to dogs. Ideally, you’d be keeping an eye on him anyway if he’s around those substances, but grass-eaters are at higher risk than most since they’re more likely to ingest plant matter that herbicides and other toxic chemicals have been sprayed onto. In addition to this, it’s also best if he’s kept away from those clumps of dried-out grass that lie around on the lawn after it’s been freshly mowed. It shouldn’t be a problem if the grass is mowed by a push-mower; but if it’s been through a gas-operated machine, the grass will be tainted with petrol fumes and grease, which at best will taste horrible and at worst can make him pretty sick. (Fortunately for your peace of mind and your dog’s peace of digestive tract, all but the most food-obsessed dogs will usually spurn this smelly fare in favor of clean, fresh grass.)

If your dog’s grass eating is really bothering you, presumably this is out of concern for your lawn, rather than your dog, since there’s ample evidence that dogs suffer no adverse effects from frequent grassy snacks. There are a couple of things you can try doing to reduce his desire to supplement his diet with eatables from the backyard – but, because this is one area of dogdom that nobody really knows that much about (scientists are frankly mystified by the appetite of the average dog for verdure), the success rate is more hit-and-miss than guaranteed: * Try varying his diet slightly. Unlike humans, dogs do not need a widely varied diet to keep them “interested” in food; they’re creatures of routine, and diet is no exception to this rule. However, since one of the theories that attempts to explain why dogs eat grass is centered around a lack of nutritional variety, you can try introducing various tasty vegetables into his food: most dogs enjoy tomatoes, carrots (either steamed or raw) and chopped apples. Be sure to stay well away from grapes, raisins, and onions, since these are toxic to dogs. * Supervise him whenever he’s around grass. This may not be a particularly user-friendly option, especially for off-lead walks; you’ll have to keep a real eagle-eye on your canine walking buddy to make sure he’s not making a dash for the greenery.

Realistically, there’s not really a lot you can do about your dog’s grass eating habit (aside from deny him access to grass utterly, which wouldn’t be fair to your dog and would make your daily dog-walking expeditions more of an exercise in frustration than a relaxing stroll). The general consensus from the experts seems to be that grass-eating, although somewhat of an enigmatic pastime to us humans, is just ‘one of those things’ as far as your dog is concerned. It won’t do him any harm, and you can be sure that if he’s eating it, he’s enjoying it – so there’s really not a lot to be said for depriving him of that simple pleasure. Furthermore, and in addition to the logistics of permitting this penchant, I’ve got to say that watching your dog ripping up and chewing generous mouthfuls of turf with an expression of half-lidded bliss on his face can provide you (and passersby) with some unexpected entertainment when the two of you are out and about together!


For further reading … For more information on dog psychology and general canine behavioral traits, with a particular focus on problematic behaviors, you’ll probably want to take a look at Secrets to Dog Training. It’s a complete, detailed manual for the intelligent and responsible owner, and covers everything from obedience training through to preventing and handling a huge variety of common problem behaviors. Well worth checking out! You can visit the Secrets to Dog Training website by clicking on the link below:

Secrets To Dog Training

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How To Train A Dog Not To Chew Everything-Stop A Destructive Chewing Dog

More video progress to share, and a blooper too.

It's been a busy past few days. I intended to do more training sooner but sometimes the planets just don't align to give me the time. I went out and got not one but two mini tripods to help me with my video taping. One is a simple 6 inch tripod and the other is a neat flexible 7 inch job. Each for under 10 bucks too.

The first video is Jenny learning how to ring a bell. I probably should have decided if I wanted her to ring it with her nose or her paw before I began. I was thinking paw when I started but then she used her nose so I adapted to do either. I think I will go just to paw next time. Excuse the mumbling. I was trying to explain what I was doing but I didn't want to disturb her working and I was concentrating on her as well. I think I was saying something about raising criteria. (they are shown in the order that I took them earlier today)

None of the videos are perfect, but I think it's important to show that training is a process that doesn't always go as planned. The goal is to communicate clearly to your dog and have fun while teaching them skills. I think the videos do show that. Missy was in the next room with my son watching us through the baby gate. You might hear her in the background. I had him feed her treats so she wouldn't whine to join us, which is what she has started to do. It might be interesting to see what she would do given the opportunity but I'm not sure that is fair given her condition. (tho I guess I could try.)



The reason I think she was successful so quickly with getting a sound is because we have been doing paw work with the nail trimmers. She has been slapping her paw into my hand with the trimmers in them as well. If you were to work with a dog that doesn't offer any touching at first simply start with a look towards the item and work from there. You gradually increase the criteria after the dog "gets" the game. Make sure to keep your rate of reinforcement high in the beginning to keep the dog interested. (reinforce for every good thing) I do not have that problem with Jenny.

This next video is my first session with the metal dumbbell. This is actually a scent article used in obedience showing. It is longer than the other dumbbell I was using which seemed uncomfortable for her to hold for any length of time. I also have the leather ones but wanted her to learn to pick them up without mouthing them that she did in the last video so I chose the metal one. I wasn't sure she would want to pick it up at all with it being metal. I did buy some wood pieces and dowels to make a longer wooden dumbbell but didn't have time to assemble it. Since it was a different dumbbell I went back a few steps in training when I started today's session.



I thought it was funny that she went over to the camera. "What happens if I touch this." Of course I learned my lesson and put the camera up on a chair for the next try.



Like I said they aren't perfect. We are a work in progress. I welcome all constructive criticism. I've been thinking about coming up with a routine to entertain residents in the local nursing homes. I've never had the urge for therapy dog work, I would feel awkward, but this I think I could do. My hat goes off to anyone who can do therapy work. I think it is amazing stuff.

I also have a confession to make, I used a clicker with a client today. (and have found a lovely easy on the ears version that has a strap for my finger made by premier) The verbal marker just wasn't cutting it for one of her two dogs so for clarity I bought it out of "the box". It worked like a charm. She won't use it herself, so we paired it with the verbal marker. It was just enough to make it clearer for the dog though and that is the important bit.

**A big shout out to my grandmother (Nanny) who turned 87 today. She is one of the lights of my life and I seriously do not know where I would be today without her. She still makes me strawberry jam and quilts and mows her own lawn. I wish I had a quarter of her talents and hope to be half as active at her age. She makes quilts for aids babies, care kits for veterans AND works in our local food pantry. She just received a presidential volunteerism award as well as one from the state. I am super proud of her and just wanted to brag. (It's my blog so I can do that!) Happy Birthday Nanny!!**

It's about the nose

Missy has typical old bulldog nose. Something that is common in the short faced breeds. This means her nose grows these bizarre little extensions on it. Some bulldogs get dry or cracked noses. I tried to get a photo to show but this is the best my camera would give me. The extensions gather dog food and other crud in them so not only is it yucky is is probably unhealthy too. It is simply not fitting for a diva at all. To treat this I use a product specificly made for frenchies called "Nose Butter" from http://www.theblissfuldog.com/ I bought this tub of it years ago (literally) and it is still like new, and not even half gone. I've even given some to my sister AND a friend for their dogs! So if you order some, the big tub should last you quite awhile.

Here is some in the tin, and on Missy's nose. This softens the nose and in a day or two I simply rub her nose and all those little extensions/pieces fall right off and looks normal again. It's like magic. Missy loves the taste of the stuff but isn't thrilled with the application process. I think she finds it undignified. Given the opportunity she would gladly eat it directly out of the tin instead. What can I say, the girl knows what she likes!

Three Common Dog Training Mistakes-And How To Avoid Them!

Many dog owners try to train their dog at home without the use of a professional, and this is great. We still believe that the best dog trainer for your dog is YOU...because your dog trusts you more than anyone. The problem is this: dog training is almost an exact science, and you do need some training before you can do some dog training.

Make sense?

Here are the three most common mistakes that dog owners make when trying to train their dog themselves:

The first dog training mistake we see is owners giving the heel command and snapping or tugging the dog's leash at the same time. This is a natural action for a dog owner, you are trying to get the dog to go where you want it to go. Unfortunately, it doesn't teach the dog to heel, it teaches the dog that when she hears the heel command she is going to get her collar (and neck) jerked. This only confuses the dog, as she doesn't know what she did to deserve it.

The second common dog obedience training mistake is a biggie: using the command "down" when you want a dog to get "off". This one really confuses your dog. You have to use the "off" command, because to a dog "down" means to lay down. Imagine this scenario: your dog is laying on the couch and you tell him to get down. Wait a minute, in dog world he already is down. This is why you have to use the "off" command when you want the dog to get off of something, and why your dog tries to get in your lap and lay down when you use the "down" command when he is giving you an affection attack.

The third common dog training mistake might take you by surprise, but you have probably done it, as have most anyone trying to train their dog, and that is bending over your dog's head or getting in his face when giving a command or scolding him for a bad deed, While you are looking for obedience or the correct performance of a given task, what you are going to get is a dog that will shy away, and in some cases, becomes aggressive. While you are trying to correct your dog, you are in fact intimidating her. This will make for an unhappy dog, and unhappy dogs do not want to perform for you.

Dog training is all about positive reinforcement and getting your dog to want to do the right thing. It takes time and patience, and it IS an exact science. If you need more information on dog training and performing dog obedience training correctly, please visit Dog Training Online

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Dog Training Tips And Dog Obedience Tips

Life with a big hairy dog & dumbell session #2

Jack is overdue for a grooming. He is shedding and I have many dog hair dust bunnies that look big enough to take over should they ever come alive due to a power surge and a glitch in the hollodeck. (Ok I made that first part up, we'll never have a power surge.) Normally I bite the bullet and take him to his groomer who he loves. ( P.S. They have a new website: Yankee clipper pet grooming )But I am still recovering from the holidays and into the "hoarding of the money" phase of winter. Translation, I am being cheap. So I thought I would take him to work and do him there myself. (We have a tub!) But after seeing two clients and doing various errands on my "day off" I only managed to get the pre-bath grooming done. By then I was exhausted and in no shape for all the work a bath would involve.

Seriously, it wasn't us.

He definately looks much better after a brush out. I even managed to trim his foot hair and do his nail trim too. Does anyone else have a dog that eats the nail cuttings?(It was Jenny of course. She will eat anything.) I love this photo I snapped afterwards. Missy looks pretty happy. I'm sure it was because I didn't clip her nails. If the planets stay aligned I plan on taking him to a handling class tonight. (Yes he is neutered and no I don't show, it is just a way to get him out and work him around other dogs.)

Then I decided to continue Jenny's dumbell training. I am doing it in stages with the goal of her picking it up and carrying it to me and releasing on cue. I think I might need a slightly longer dumbell though. While she can physically pick this one up it looks uncomfortable to me when she holds it. Maybe I will dig my other ones out next time.

I managed to stop saying "good girl" to much this time but I did start pointing towards the end of the session which I didn't mean to do. I also think I need to invest in a tri-pod if I am going to keep videoing my progress. (Which I totally am!) I think she did a fabulous job once again.

Enjoy!!

Missing French Bulldog-Urgent Help Needed

Missing French Bulldog – Urgent Help Needed Chicago Area, PLEASE pass this on!!!

A helpful night time tip

OK I'm sure I am probably one of the last people to try this, and everyone will laugh at how silly this post is because of that fact. But I have to share one of my favorite dog related Christmas gifts this year. It is............drumroll please..........a head lamp. Yup one of those dorky flashlights you wear on your head. As shown on this lovely model here:


My sister uses one and got me my very own as a gift. I have to say I really love it. Since I refuse to put up flood lights at our temporary home this is a far less expensive way to get the same results. I can see my dogs no matter where they are in my yard at night and I have my hands free while doing it. I know, it isn't exactly inventing the wheel but what can I say? When I find a useful product I like to pass the info along. Anything to make life easier with dogs is always nice to have.


This is Missy Moo outside in the light of the lamp with NO flash on the camera. Pretty good huh? I believe mine came from L.L.Bean. (where else?) It can be found in the camping and outdoor section. I hope someone else out there thinks this is as great an idea that I did. Even if I was a little slow in finding it. (My other helpful tip is to keep it near the door so you don't forget to use it.)

How To Stop Dog Food Aggression Or Canine Possession Aggression

Dog food aggression, or Canine Possession Aggression,is one of the more serious dog behavior problems and needs to be dealt with quickly once your dog shows the signs. Basically, your dog is trying to assert it's status as the alpha dog, and you just can't let this happen.

It doesn't make sense that your dog would consider you a threat, but you are not only threatening his food, but his alpha dog status. If your dog is growling, snarling, barking, nipping at you, or anything else that can be considered aggressive behavior, you are going to have to get a handle on it right now.

It seems really cute when your new puppy is growling over a toy or her food, but this could be the start of Canine Possession Aggression, and could lead to a case of dog food aggression.

What can you do about dog food aggression or Canine Possession Aggression?

First. let's look at the reasons your dog seems to have dog food aggression, and what he is probably thinking.

1. Your dog is confused about who the leader in the household is. Your dog thinks he is the alpha dog.

2. Food is one of the biggest pleasures in a dog's life, and dogs are basically scavengers, so your dog's instinct may be taking over and telling him that he may not get another meal for awhile.

3. You're the person who is always taking the "good stuff" away, and your dog may stop looking at you as the food provider.

Dog Food Aggression Training Techniques:

Before we go into the training techniques for dog food aggression, please remember that if you feel physically threatened by your dog, you should call a professional to at least get the process started.

Here is a list of training techniques which should help your dog overcome her dog food aggression. You can do these in any paticular order, all of them, or only one or two of them. Your goal here is to recondition your dog.

1. Stand at a distance from the dog bowl that your dog is comfortable with, then gradually reduce this distance. Toss a few treats near your dog as you slowly reduce the distance.

2. When your dog is eating, call him over to you, when he gets to you reward him, make it worth his while then let him back to the food bowl.

3. Drop a few of your dog's favorite treats into her bowl each time you walk past it. After a while of doing this your dog will welcome the sight of you approaching the bowl.

4. Hand feed your dogs. Eventually you should even be able to stick your hands into your dogs bowl while he is eating without any sign of aggression.

5. Stroke and pet your dog while he is eating and at the same time talk to him in a calming tone. All you are doing at this point is showing your dog that it is a good thing for you to be around.

6. Put your dogs bowl down empty. After the initial shock, she will be begging for you to fill it.

You should be able to kick your dog's dog food aggression problem in a short period of time if you are firm and consistent with her training.

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Three Common Dog Training Mistakes-And How To Avoid Them!

For further information on typical doggie behavior, including a fantastic resource for training how-to's and loads of detailed information on preventing and dealing with problem behaviors,please visit Dog Training Dog Obedience Training

A snow day marker training session

So today we are shoveling out from quite a bit if snow here in Mid-Coast Maine. Yesterday it was all beautiful and lightweight and easy to shovel. This morning gave us high drifts and heavy harder to shovel snow. Not my favorite. I hate driving in slushy snow after having a couple of accidents in it over the years so I rescheduled the client I was going to see today. Fortunately this worked out in her favor as well. As much as I love my work I'm not into risking life and limb to get there.
To give you an idea how much we got this is Jack standing in the part of the yard that didn't get any drifting this morning. Poor Missy got stuck in a drift twice trying to get outside to pee. She was not impressed.

I also spent last night reading more of "The Thinking Dog" again and it clarified some things for me with the marker training I already do. For anyone thinking of clicker work or marker training I can already say BUY THIS BOOK! It is fabulous and is so clearly written it will only sharpen your skills if you already use the principles. If you don't do any type of marker training it will certainly make you reconsider.

This combined with having a free day to myself and my own dogs gave me the urge to work with Jenny for fun. Back in July I had gotten a fabulous deal on some dumbbells and scent article dumbbells. Even though I don't currently show in obedience venues I thought they would be fun to work with. Plus teaching her to pick up stuff will come in handy for our tracking training. (scent article on the track have to be clearly found, either by the dog sitting, going into a down or picked up and brought to the handler)

Here is a short video of after our 20 minute session. (Next time I will try to remember to get a before video.)



Things for me to work on are: keeping my verbal "yes" reward marker more consistent and to stop saying good dog so much. "Take it" will be my verbal cue in the future so I attach it now.

How cute is she??